I have a 2006 E350 6.0 PSD with 157K. Was running great. Did a routine oil change and now no start. FICM voltaghe is at 49 and ICP is at 280-300 while cranking. Two codes came up, P0678 and P0683. I know these are glowplug 8 fault and the Glow Plug Control Module. I am about 50 miles from a mechanic so was wondering if there was anything I can try to get the van started to make it to a diesel mechanic or that the 6.0 P0683 means the control module is shot and has to be replaced for the engine to start. The engine is also throwing a P0403 code which makes me think it is electrical, as the engine has been bullet proofed so the EGR should not be affecting the start. Any thoughts?

 

Well since you didn't mention the low ICP pressure when cranking over on the PSN forum, I would say here that you should address that low oil pressure as well as resolve the glow plug codes. I know your climate never gets below 70*F, but as stated on PSN, you still do not want to have a bad GPCM affecting things.

It will never start at 300 psi in the high pressure oil system. Maybe a leak in an injector seal, but you really need to do an air test. Also, just to verify ICP accuracy, it would hurt to post the ICP sensor volts when cranking.

 

Are the oil filter/cap and drain plug all you touched? Motorcraft oil filter and cap?

As Bismic said with that low ICP number it ain’t gonna start.

 

Yes, only oil filter and drain plug. Oil filter is OEM Motorcraft. Just a quick check, the oil filter on the E350 is right next to the oil pan. I was looking at a video on oil change just to refresh myself, and saw that they had placed the oil filter in upside down - that is, the correct way is the side of the oil filter that is flush should go up and the side with the prongs should sit in the cap before screwing on. Just checking, that is correct right?

Bismic, On the ICP reading, I am using a ScanII, don't see where I can read the ICP sensor volts on that.

 

ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
MTH: 004827100000
NAM: ICPV

Also your reported alternator output ("alternator is putting out 13.2-13.6") is on the lowish side.

 

Thanks, will input and post results here.

 

ICP voltage Key On is at .28 and .43 while cranking. ICP is at 281. I don't show any oil leaks from the oil change. The only question is if I have the oil filter in the right orientation. I have flush side up into the filter and the side with prongs fitted into the cap,

 

The oil leaks that would cause a low ICP are internal to the engine. Yes, the "prongs" fit in the cap.

If you are using an aftermarket oil filter cap, with a Motorcraft filter, then you can have an issues.

 

Do you have a drain plug on the oil filter canister/housing?

 

Yes there is. I believe canister and motorcraft filter are OEM. The truck ran fine (besides the glow plug code and egr code) prior to the oil change. I touched nothing but drain plug and filter canister. Is it possible that it could be a bum filter?

 

I suppose it could be a bum filter, but on this side of the screen, I must say that sounds like something isn't OEM. Where did you get the filter?

After all, when it works fine before an oil change, doesn't work after an oil change - sure sounds like it was something related to the oil change.

Have you ever used one of the "inserts" that goes into the oil filter stand pipe? Sometimes things are just coincidences, but more often than not - they aren't.

 

I don't think the OEM filter cap has a drainplug on the Eseries none of my four have them. The issue I had was the aftermarket filter not fitting into the OEM cap without the plastic adapter to hold the standpipe down. That wouldn't let the cap go down far enough to even catch threads. Sounds like the OP got his cap on, so that's not his problem. He might be the opposite - an aftermarket cap with a too short OEM filter? But, in the Fseries, that still lets the truck start. Would the fact that it's upside down in the Eseries make the tall cap/OEM filter combo not even start? If that standpipe isn't being pushed "in" ("up" in the Eseries) could that make it not start?

OP, do you get the low pressure to register on the dash gauge while cranking?

 

I appreciate the post Ron. Check out the OEM cap, you can see the oil filter cap drain plug that I was asking about:

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts...iABEgLZ1PD_BwE

In the F series if the oil filter housing drain valve (on the oil filter base manifold) is not pushed down all the way (left open), it does cause a no-start at times. All depends on how much oil is continuously draining and how solid the high pressure system is. You are correct, in that the E series isn't the same and doesn't need a drain valve on the manifold that the filter cap screws into (different than the filter cap drain plug that I was asking about earlier to make sure the cap was OEM). That is why I also was later asking about the plastic insert that goes in the standpipe that some aftermarket combinations come with that can cause issues like you had. It can break the standpipe if forced. I do not know for sure if that would cause a low ICP in an E-series.

The OP has several issues. A GPCM issue (most likely), low running voltage (assuming his 13.2V is not a fluke observation and wasn't at a first start with the Glow Plugs still running), and low ICP. He states that it happened right after a filter change. IMO he just needs to make sure things are right there (or not) as a beginning. If at some time parts of the standpipe broke off and got through the screen to the IPR valve (and through the IPR screen), it could hold that IPR valve open.

All the questions were because I didn't want to suggest inspecting the standpipe yet (and dumping the oil). On an F-series it is easy.

 

OP, unplug the ICP at the sensor and try to start.

Ed

 

Good point Ed. Even though his sensor looks ok from the voltages he posted earlier (from which it looks like he is truly getting a low ICP since .43 volts corresponds to 300 psi), it still may be an ICP sensor issue that coincidently popped up with the oil change.

Cranking rpms would also be a good thing to post (as well as FICM sync and cam/crank sync) if the unplugged ICP doesn't help.