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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Windshield and Back glass install question

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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 07:50 AM
  #1  
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Windshield and Back glass install question

After watching a few you tube videos, I'm going to install the windshield and back glass myself.
I have the rope tool that I got from Mid-fifty.
The question is, should I use the tube of the CRL butyl sealant that came with the weather strip kit..
Mid-fifty recommends using it but every video I watched the installer didn't use any sealant.
I know it will be a nasty mess if I do,...so for those that installed without the sealant, do you have any leaks?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 07:59 AM
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I don't think there is any such thing as a 48/52 Ford truck that does not have a windshield leak.
Ed
near Philadelphia
 
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 08:25 AM
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I haven’t done it on a Ford but on several Italian cars and rear side windows on my Land Cruiser. I never used sealant and never had leaks.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 08:25 AM
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Just did these two weeks ago. I was super annoyed that none of the videos, incl. those from people who recommend its use, show the actual use of the CRL (no surprise, though, after I did it). There is one thread (I think on this forum, can't find it) where someone documented use of the sealant, and even he didn't actually show it in his pictures (took the pictures after cleaning up)

I used the CRL and it is very(!) messy. I applied the butyl rubber on the glass side and the frame sides fo the the gasket.

You will need a helper. And paint thinner! And paper towels. And gloves. And clothes you don't care about.

My method was as follows:

- apply a small bead of the butyl compound into the glass side of the gasket (bead has to be small, as the channel is pretty tight and a large amount can prevent the glass from seating properly

- install glass in gasket. Butyl will get pushed out of the channel. You can clean up now or after install as things will get messy again.

- install rope in frame channel. overlap the rope by 6 inches or so. Stick it with masking tape to side you will be pulling from.

Rear glass goes in from inside the truck, windshield from outside.
It is vital that the pinch weld on the frame is clean and smooth, otherwise the seal won't seat and you will have a bad time (ask me how I know)

- apply small(!) bead of butyl to outside of frame. I would use.a gloved finger to flatten the bead a bit, reduces mess a bit. Again less might be more: too much butyl and the gasket channel will be too tight to properly fit over the pinch weld. The tolerance is not huge, so 1/16" in additional thickness could be too much.

- fit window, have helper push where you are pulling the rope and pull the lip over the pinch weld. Go half way one way, then the other way, Go slow in corners. (essentially what most of the videos say).

For me the rear window was much easier than the windshield.

if you use it, the stainless trim goes in the gasket before installation (I didn't use trim)

If your frame has the four tabs (two on top and two on bottom of the windshield) for retaining the gasket, I recommend grinding them off: they will prevent the gasket from going in, and you will learn a myriad of new ways to offend your family and neighbors with your language.

The butyl compound cleans up "relatively" easily and cleanly with paint thinner and elbow grease. It stays soft, so time is not of the essence.

My truck is a bit rustic, but even for me the amount of butyl that went everywhere was a bit much (it will stick to your gloves and you will touch other things and get butyl everywhere). I recommend protecting all surfaces you or the helper might touch with plastic drop cloths.

Originally, some people found that the trucks were installed without any additional sealant, so the gasket alone might be enough for weatherproofing. I think the butyl rubber is good insurance with aftermarket gaskets that may or may not be close to the original dimensions/design.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 08:33 AM
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Here is the older thread for windshield install with CRL:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tallation.html

Things will not be as clean as shown in the photos...
 
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 10:33 AM
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I installed my windshield without sealant and guess what, it leaked. I used permatex flowable windshield sealant. I masked off around the outside of the gasket, and ran a very small bead under the rubber. No more leaks and there was no mess if you’re careful.

I too used the midfifty rope kit and a suction cup from harbor freight and I did it myself in about 30 minutes. Maybe it was beginners luck.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2021 | 06:55 AM
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Thanks all for your replies......I'm thinking of using the butyl on the frame only since it is more uneven with the spot welds.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 06:51 AM
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I used the CRL butyl when I installed my front and back glass in my 51 F1. Messy, but the only way to ensure no leaks.

Clean up trick: use an old terry cloth towel cut into pieces roughly 12" x 12" instead of paper towels. The coarseness of the terry cloth removes the excess butyl much faster and with less work than paper towels. And don't be cheap with the mineral spirits-I found that a good amount of mineral spirits on the rag softens and removes the butyl quickly.
I hang the used rags over the edge of my outdoor trash can until the mineral spirits evaporates, then I can soak them in water and toss them in the trash. Leave outdoors for about a week, and never bunch or pile the solvent soaked rags. When they have little to no smell they are safe.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 08:52 AM
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I'm guessing by the replies that any leak is most likely going to be on the pichweld not the glass . I wonder why though as I routinely do semies and farm equipment and never have leaks .
 
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 09:05 AM
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All the leaks I had was between the glass and rubber. Had a so called professional install the glass on my panel and he said there was no need to use butyl , what he didn't say was you needed a big towel and a bucket when driving in the rain..
 
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 09:28 AM
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Just like using bondo w/ out the cream hardener . Why do you think it is included in the kit ? PLEASE use the butyl sealant . Yes it is a tad messy but to insure no leaks must be used .
 
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Old Apr 2, 2021 | 09:42 AM
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That is very odd farm equipment and big trucks use a lot of different style fold over or locking strip styles and it's rare to have a leak .
 
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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 03:42 AM
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No sealant on my windshield or back window with no leaks and I had the truck in Eureka, CA area with tons of rain for almost two years.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2021 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by avf100
Thanks all for your replies......I'm thinking of using the butyl on the frame only since it is more uneven with the spot welds.
Changed my mind ....I am going to use the butyl in the glass side & the frame side. It definitely is messy but it cleans up easily. I put the rubber on the glass yesterday & my wife & I are going to install them in the truck today.

This was the messiest part of the windshield.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 08:53 AM
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Sometimes I think it's just luck of the draw on sealant or not.I had 2 glue in front windshields put in by glass shops,95 Jeep cherokee and 2005 Dodge minivan. Both leaked and had to go back. My buddy and I have roped several windows in his and my old cars with no leaks. My 52 F1 did the back with new glass and a seal that was repro in 72. No sealant and no leaks.My 40 Buick back glass same. What I did was make sure the rubber gasket new or old sat out in the sun for a while before install to soften it and also made sure it was spotlessly clean. Same with pinch weld. After install we blasted them for a while with the garden hose and not a drop. I have a CR Laurence squeeze gun with a tiny narrow tip that gets between the rubber and glass if there is a leak just in case. Haven't needed it yet.
 
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