Hey guys, new to this subforum, been on the IDI diesel side, towing and 2015 superduty forums for around 15 years now. Just picked up a 1950 F3 in driving condition, not fully road worthy but drivable! What I know about the truck so far- 6cyl 226 C-In, 4 speed non synchronized T9, 8 lug axles. Has mismatched rear leafs(10 leaf and 13 leaf pack), presumably form a much earlier "fix" with available parts. The wiring is roached, but enough there to start the truck and run the headlights. The generator is toasted and the electrical runs off a 12v battery without a charging system right now. Brakes are decent but don't like long down hills. Tires are way to old to be trusted, mounted on 3 regular wheels and 1 split rim and what looks like tubes in all 4 tires. Gauges work but are off a little. Body is in good shape for an unrestored 50s work truck, no rust in the floors, fenders, running boards or body seams. Slight rust in the front grill area above the bumper. Frame is clean but will get attention for long term durability. The bed looks to be a period correct aftermarket flatbed with new ash boards. The plan is to get everything road worthy and reliable.
Work list in priority order:
-electrical system
-brake work- retaining drums but needs shoes and lines checked
-new tires
-new door glass
-wire wheel and paint underside of cab and frame
-flatbed side boards and rear boards
-interior panels, seat and floor mats

Towing home

the 91 IDI is hidden in the back




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Spent the day looking into wiring options and new alternator upgrades. Lots of options, if anybody has some input Id love to hear the best option to install. I'd like to keep a simple clean wiring install which should be easy with the limited electrical needs.

 

Welcome to this side of the forum. To start with your engine is a 226 and tranny, if stock, would be a T9. The wheels look stock in your picture and, if 17” as I suspect, will be widow maker two pieces. The one that you say is multi-piece, if 17” too, would likely be a GM version mounted on a front corner (won’t fit a rear hub). Finding a shop to mount tires could be a real task. Do yourself Google and Google Images searchs for Firestone RH-5° and widow maker terms. For a GM 17” look for Kelsey Hayes AR style. Stu

 

The 226 was the smaller 6 than, little new to me. The one guy I know called the trans the "4 speed crash box". Yes the wheels are 17". I'm not particular to keeping them but want to keep the look at a minimum. My father in law had a stock 1949 F1 besides a flathead v8. His mechanic would work with the split rims but if I can find others that fit I'd use them.

 

Hi, and welcome from Maine to the 48-56 forum.

That F3 looks to be in decent shape for a New England vehicle. Your engine appears to be a 226 cubic inch. You mentioned that it has a T-98, which are all synchronized. Could you have a T9 non-synchro instead? I don't see the center-located parking brake handle to indicate a T-98.
The '48-51 F1 to F3 trucks didn't get the T-98's - only the larger trucks. I notice that the battery is on the passenger side, it should be naturally located on the driver's side for the 6-cylinder engine. Of course after 60 years, folks could have moved and mixed things all around.
You might want to confirm your drive train before you buy any parts for it. This forum has all the info you need by doing a search for 226 and T9 numbers.
One option for your your charging system, is to use a 12-volt generator from a 1964 Ford Galaxie. With minor fabrication for mounting it will fit the engine if you want the original type 'look', and you can use the same size belt to match the water pump pulley. Those generators are cheap and can be bought at a local parts store such as NAPA. That is what I put on my 226. Just need to trim one of the case mount ears and make some collars for the mount bolts. Only took me a couple of hours to make it fit. Think about getting a Pertronix ignition & coil for it too.
There are some good resource threads on this forum for doing the 12V conversion.
Now as for original brake parts............ooooohhhh man that it not going to be easy. The 14" rear drums are impossible to find new. The front 12" ones are scarce and expensive if you can some some. Shoes are hard to find but the wheel cylinders aren't. Look carefully at your brakes to see exactly what is on there. Someone might have changed the style over the years.
All your cab interior/exterior parts are the same for F1 and F3, so you can use the regular catalog companies to get parts.
You have a nice truck there - lots of character!
Again, welcome and I'm glad another F3 is getting back on the road.
Tom

 

Ha - Stu was typing while I was writing...

 

Went up and edited the post to reflect the engine and trans models. Good info on the generator!! I like that idea and keeping ford parts in it. The previous owner bought this truck with 2 F1 parts trucks from a farmer. Makes sense that some things vary from stock but still work. What are guys doing for brake drums and pads? Or do you just swap a newer dana 60 or similar in and get discs in the rear?

 

The 17” wheels were needed on F-3s to clear the 14” Lockheed rear drums. Boneyard common 16s won’t fit. There are wheel fixes that we can go into, or you can research swapping the axle for a bump side D60. These D60s are pretty much a bolt in swap to read the descriptions. For wheel swaps search for Budd 71410s (19.5”) or Budd 73240 or 70720s (17.5”). Some guys have also opted to remount their widow maker centers into new tubeless outer rims. Stu

Edit - also, if you have access to the F-1s both front and rear axles will bolt in. Stu

 

I bought an 8-lug front disc conversion kit for my F3. They are not plug-and-play but with some fabrication it can work. I put a Dana 60 drum-style on the rear to eliminate the widow-makers and brake issues. 1968 to 1972 Ford F-250's are the same track width and go on very easily. Just need to shorten the rear half of the driveshaft and do some mods for the parking brake. Then you can cruise better with 4:11's instead of those stock 4:86's.
For what it is worth....a couple of years ago we had an uphill road race in Pennsylvania with a couple of F3's. The 4:86 with non-syncho T9 won. Depends on the skill and determination of the driver. Good thing we didn't bet pink slips.

 

Doesn't appear to be the original flatbed, but the short runningboards suggest it was originally equipped with one.

 

Yes, it is not a Ford factory flatbed. The first owner probably bought the truck as a cab and chassis. Then bought an aftermarket flatbed. Lots of flatbed manufacturers around back then.

 

IDI, welcome to the 48-56 forum. It looks like a nice truck or Monkey Face as we call them.

I don't know much about 48-52 trucks but I can add this about wiring harnesses. If you aren't adding electrical accessories buy a stock looking harness. It won't have a lot of unnecessary circuits. Also, don't rip out the old harness totally . Tear out 2-3 feet, install 2-3 feet if the new and so on. That way you can follow the route of your old harness.

Thanks for the pics and keep us informed of your progress!

 

If you're ever looking for a rematch, count me in. I'll take my odds.

 

I'll include my somewhat late welcome to this site. The generator on your engine looks like a later 12V unit already. Take some good pictures on how it is mounted, and go get a good 12V generator. Actually, make sure the voltage regulator isn't the problem first. Ford started 12V generators in 56 and most of the 56 and later generators look like what is on your engine.

 

Welcome to the forum. It's good to see the F2's and F3's getting saved. Been quite a few lately. Looks like the other guys covered most of what I would have said. You're on THE BEST forum for this project.