When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got the seats out to put new covers and heaters in them. Needed to check for power in the harness coming out of the driver floor and accidently touched 2 of the pins with the probe at the same time. Some nice sparks and a snap in the fuse box. Had the cove off. Tried to find a blown fuse but no luck. The wire I crossed was the heavy green one to the pin next to it. Can't find any diagrams anywhere so can someone help? 02 350 7.3 lariat
Used a multi meter. No owners manual but somewhere I have a Haynes manual. Don't remember any good electrical diagrams in there. That diagram would help.
David found the manual for you to reference. Check it out and try to identify the correct fuse for your nonfunctioning electric seat.
Haynes manuals are very good at some things, but very bad at most things. If you still need it later, I will look in the Ford Service Manual for the appropriate diagram.
Backprobe the connector next time. It's a much safer way to do it when you are dealing with two exposed male pins. That is a bad design on Ford's part though. General wisdom is to always put the male pins on the side of the connector that does not have hot 12VDC when disconnected.
We got power caption! Found it and it was #112. It was one of those expensive Jcase 30 ampers with the clear top. One of the things I sell for a living some I get them cheap.
Here is my list of what a Haynes (or Chilton's) manual is good for:
1. Suppyling pages to line the bottom of a birdcage.
2. Filling a recycling bin
Anything more technical than that and you're in trouble.
Agreed sir! I have never been a fan of them as they seemed vague to me, even as a novice wrench turner.
Originally Posted by GotAll4
We got power caption! Found it and it was #112. It was one of those expensive Jcase 30 ampers with the clear top. One of the things I sell for a living some I get them cheap.
Here is my list of what a Haynes (or Chilton's) manual is good for:
1. Suppyling pages to line the bottom of a birdcage.
2. Filling a recycling bin
Anything more technical than that and you're in trouble.
Agreed with Mark and Sous. I have purchased factory shop manuals for many of the vehicles I’ve owned over the years including an English Rover 2000TC and a Rover 3500. The early manuals had actual pics/photos whereas now they have “sketches”.
I've always preferred Haynes manuals. Had good luck with them over the years. Maybe it's the specific vehicles, I don't know. They've been great for the bunch of Triumphs I have, Bronco II, 2 rangers , an explorer, a bunch of Volvos over the years but this F350 manual, I guess I don't even keep track of where it's at it's been so useless.
I had a Ranger years ago. It came with a Haynes manual. I needed to change the clutch, so I thought I'd refresh it in my memory and read what the manual said about pulling the trans. It said to remove the transmission. That was very helpful.
I had a Ranger years ago. It came with a Haynes manual. I needed to change the clutch, so I thought I'd refresh it in my memory and read what the manual said about pulling the trans. It said to remove the transmission. That was very helpful.
This is about what I remember as well. Vague and nondescript tasks noted and then they move on. Thankfully service manuals are available to us more now than ever and we are able to get the details we need.
I remember I bought the service manuals for my 1997 supercharged Grand Prix. It was about 2 feet of books when stacked on each other. They did help quite a bit though when doing work on the car. Nowadays we have them on laptops and can search in seconds, which is nice.
Ok where can I get a copy of the seat heater wiring diagrams? Got this dilemma where I'm stuck putting my seats back together until I figure what I'm doing with replacing the seat heaters. Both sides the bottoms are shot. If I order an aftermarket set then the heat range is way out of the question. 113* to `150*. Don't need to fry an egg or roasting chestnuts. If you know what I mean! I want say 80* to maybe 110* is acceptable. Thinking of if possible installing a resister to knock down the voltage or something to make it more tolerable.
OEM seat heater pads and at the Ford dealer today are vender direct only. Once ordered they are not refundable and it may be 3 days, 3 months or three years before I get them. It's when ever the vender gets enough orders to make it worth there while to build them and send them out. Also the cost is $185 just for the 2 bottom seat heaters. I can buy aftermarket universal kit for $90 or less but with those hi temps. I found aftermarket just the seat pads on another website but with only 2 wires and the Ford OEMs have 4. Two for the field and two for the thermostat. The aftermarkets do have a built in thermostat like the Fords but the thermostat must be wired into as part of the field.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.