I’m getting ready to do a set of injectors on my 2000 f250. I was planning on doing the glow plugs as well. I’m not wanting to cheap out on anything and am willing to do it right the first time. Any opinions on néw fuel lines or injector harnesses? Was probably going to do new valve cover gaskets and up pipes as well. Any opinions are greatly appreciated, thanks

 

I'd go with new VC gaskets and the UVC harness. Make sure the GPs are legit Motorcraft made by BERU, so buy them from Riff Raff for another trusted vendor. Maybe a new beefier GP relay, I forget the brand name.

Up pipes I'd recommend cheap import but make sure to dry fit the kit on the bench, my cheapos needed grinding to fit properly. Maybe a passenger side fuel line if yours is worn at the clamp.

Another level of PM would be new HPOP lines. Old ones have been known to pop especially after being disturbed.

There are lots of choices for parts so get input here.

 

Assuming you haven’t had your turbo out before I’d do a EBP deleted pedestal with fresh O-rings under and over the pedestal. That’s a big oil leaky area there and while you’re doing up-pipes it’d be easy to pull the turbo.
(soak the manifold bolts really well with PB Blaster or your preferred penetrating oil, the day or days before if possible)

Plenum inserts, boots and clamps from Riff Raff
(clean the intercooler pipe ends really well and throw some hair spray on them to have a tight seal)
Donaldson Blue 6637 air filter with RR’s pre filter cover.
If you have the turbo out, now would be a good time to put in a new compressor wheel or rebuild it with 360 bearings.
Fuel Modifications
Oil crossover
The list goes on forever and the party never ends!

 

Thanks I appreciate the advice, exactly the kind of stuff I needed to know. I may go ahead and upgrade the turbo while I’m at it. Any other gaskets or lines I should order before I dive in?

 

Definitely Bitterroot for your new Injectors. I prefer 160/30’s for most applications.

Authentic Motorcraft GP’s for sure. I usually just do the $0.52 mod instead of replacing VC gaskets and UVCH’s.

I always remove the clamps on fuel lines from filter to heads.

Anymore, I will at least rebuild the water drain valve on fuel filter. Use the upgraded (blue) o-rings ($7).

I strongly DO NOT recommend high pressure oil crossover (HPx). It has no measurable benefits and only adds potential points of failure.

If budget allows, I would upgrade HPO lines to JIC style. The Riffraff option is my favorite.

It’s a good idea to clean the EBP sensor tube.

I like the 6637 style filter and always at least do this if stock air box is broken or missing clips. I have a write up for this in the tech folder I think?

Turbo/up-pipes aren’t really a ‘while you’re in there’ job while doing injector swap. The only common job is removing CAC pipes and intake plumbing. That said, I basically never see up-pipes that don’t leak these days. I did a write up for tech folder about changing up-pipes, etc. I strongly recommend DIY delete of EBPV if you choose to get rid of it. It’s a waste of $$ to buy parts for this (deleted pedestal, etc). Spend that cash on parts that actually have a benefit.

I do prefer plenum inserts, upgraded CAC boots and replace the worm clamps on intake plenums to spider with t-bolt clamps.

You can replace/UPGRADE the CCV and oil fill spout o-rings using some of your old injector o-rings.

Good luck and keep us posted!!! (We like pictures btw... )

 

I'm in the same boat, yanking em out April 5th. One thing I didn't see mentioned yet was oil cooler orings. Gonna have it all drained for injectors anyways. Mine is still factory, so now is the time to buy another 21 yrs of peace of mind. Didn't see anyone mention injector hold down bolts. Kinda an important little bolt to have not fail with a fresh one in my opinion.
how are your coolant hoses? Gonna have that drained down for injectors, might as well replace them if like mine they are factory.

 

Lmao let the PSD begin!

 

Good info, keep it coming! Planning on new water pump and all belts and hoses. What about any sensors or HPOP Gaskets and seals?

 

Dang it! Just pull the engine and rebuild it already! Besides the oil pan probably need replacing!
😃🤣

 

I was planning on doing most of the work myself. But by chance does anyone know of a real good 7.3 mechanic in the Stephenville/ Fort Worth,Texas area?

 

Oil cooler rebuild should be combined with cooling system flush and switch to ELC. This is when I would consider water pump, t-stat, etc. I don’t remember seeing a hose failure on these trucks that wasn’t from external damage. This is not something I replace as PM. Of course, they are getting older... Definitely replace the upper hose if it doesn’t go around the belt.

If mission creep/PMS is going on, might as well replace the belt and tensioner.

Injector hold down bolts don’t need replaced. Might as well say retorque/hot torque is also silly AF.

I would never remove a functioning HPOP. You can consider replacing the o-ring on 3/4” plug on back of HPOP and the o-rings on HPO lines at adapters to pump and heads if you don’t upgrade the hoses.

Definitely get the ‘mechanics parts cabinet’ for every common o-ring, etc you can use.

https://www.dieselorings.com/7-011-f...1999-2003.html

 

Nobody mentioned a console. You can learn a lot about how your system is functioning by monitoring ICP, IPR, boost, backpressure, and several others as you drive down the road. It can also save your tranny. I have a fuel delivery issue in my 550 tank and can see it coming in ICP before it affects power. So I know to stop for fuel.

I recommend the Edge Insight 3 sold at Riff Raff Diesel. Pop for the extra-cost EGT module and you can watch for piston crown overheat if you tow. You'll have to drill and tap your exhaust manifold, but you'll be in that area anyway for your bellows up pipes (and possibly broken exhaust bolts to fix) and EBPV delete. The best downpipe for the money imho is Diamond Eye. Banks Power Elbow is super cool but super spendy.

Finally, a rebuilt IDM is like new running shoes ... if it's mod'd to 140 volt operation. That was the first mod I did and it gave me wheelspin off the line with no brake torquing. Of course, Officer, I never actually do that.

 

I have that HPx on one of my trucks and it still has some idle roughness. If it fails you have an oily mess. Ask me how I know.
But Riff Raff's FRx is another story. I'm installing one soon on my 550 and will report. It's only $200.
FRx info

Pics or it didn't happen!!