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Brief update on my ongoing towing experiences with my '97 F350 CCLB Dually. Zero breakdowns, zero failures, zero leaks, zero issues since I bought it last Spring. Very pleased with how it has performed overall. Towing heavy log loads, heavy skidsteer, heavy dump runs, other trucks on trailer, and Airstream. Last weekend I pulled my Airstream a couple hours south. Not many hills, but just for fun I mashed the pedal a few times with Torque Pro connected, and recorded the following peak parameters (see red markers on each gauge below):
InjPW max 2,400 uSec
HPOP max 2,500 psi
IPR max 35%
Boost max 13psi
Truck is totally stock from a performance mod standpoint as best I can tell. I went back to my Torque data posted earlier this year, and peak parameters seem the same as in the spring. Welcome any comments on this data. I am certain I have boost leaks, with only 13psi, WOT, with ~8,000# on my hitch. That aside, I welcome any comments on these results. (Ignore yellow numbers, focus on red triangles.)
Torque Pro gauges, with high water on each marked by red triangles.
Regarding possible performance mods, I've gradually been absorbing ideas and experiences by others' posts, and am contemplating a series of mods as follows:
Hydra -- already own one, just need to get it installed
E-fuel $600- 1000
Boost leak jihad
Turbo upgrade / rebuild $150-200 for a stock rebuild with billet wheel or $300 for a stock KC s300 upgrade or $1k+ for and aftermarket turbo.
Bigger injectors $1300+ depends if you want to go new
New HPOP CNC has one for $535
Valve springs Pro Comp $100-$120
Intercooler kits usually in the 1k or you can do a DIY with stupid duty parts for less than $300
Replace any/all aging hoses I wouldn't consider it a mod but a necessity but in hose maybe $100-$200
Stock spare breakdown candidates (CPS, et al)300-400 just in FoMoCo sensors.
My truck has some excellent towing/reliability mods by original owner, including EGT and tranny temp gauge, auxiliary tranny cooler and fan, hardened E4OD tranny, replaced 3" down pipe, +40gal Transfer Flow 3rd tank, trailer brake controller. Original owner was all about 5th wheel camping, in style.
I think I am staying away from brake upgrades for now. Existing brakes seem just fine.
And since any list such as the above should be judged with goals first, here are my goals:
More towing power. I don't need to be the first one to top of the pass, but I've had to slow to ~35mph when climbing at sea level towing 14,000#, and I'd prefer to be able to hold 50mph with that load, on that climb, if possible, without blowing trannies.
Reliability. I think I'm going to own and love this beast for a while. I'd like to keep up the reliability record.
Configurability. Cue the Hydra.
Resale. Some day I may part with it, and I want prospective buyers to be impressed with the complete package.
Unicorn. Converting to 4WD is a possible project ahead, and I bought an '04 SD CC SB Dually as possible drivetrain donor. Though that project is already costing me more than most of the above upgrades.
Welcome any input. To the nearest thousand dollars, and assuming I do most of the work myself, what would a quality parts list cost for the above upgrades? $5,000? More?
. Very close to your $5k guesstimate. Just add a couple bucks here and there for coolant, hose clamps, tool rental, custom tunes etc.
I can speak to the budget question, because I just had a similar journey with my OBS. I would expect to spend at least $5000, if not more.
One thing I found very helpful during my build was specific part suggestions, so I will return the favor by giving you some ideas for your list here:
E-fuel My favorite is the 444fab kit with OEM Bosch Superduty pump $859
Boost leak jihad
This will be solved while installing new turbo, intercooler, and plenums
Turbo upgrade / rebuild
Unless you want to go T4 style, consider the KC300X turbo stage 1 size $1150
You will probably want the EVBP delete pedestal too $199
Bigger injectors
I would recommend some 160/30 size from Rosewood$1385 or Bitterroot$1450
I did that Mark F built Efuel kit. No clue its power limit, but works great for me. I made an install thread if you want to read it - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...purchased.html Stuff in my build thread regarding valve springs if you want to look for it.
Otherwise I am with the other guys for all the stuff basically...HPOP, valve train, efuel to start. Max out what you have on stock injectors without an IC, research and decide from there. My truck is like that essentially, I have no IC and it tows okay for my needs around 8000lbs. It could probably be better but meh, I can run 65mph out here without an issue.
Eyeball that front end too. Those I beam bushings are probably tired, mine were done at 250k and I really like my Moog progressive rate front coils paired with Bil HDs.
Thanks Hit Man. Yeah, my front end creaks a bit turning into driveways, suggesting a refresh needed under there. Though I am reluctant to spend money refreshing current suspension in case I decide to go 4x4 conversion.
I get it, but I consider it safety too. Bilsteins could easily be resold. Moog radius arm bushings are a princely sum of $20 or so last I checked...do them and shocks at same time. Brake hoses are also very inexpensive, maybe $25 for a set of inexpensive ones.
Glenn has a really nice dialed in setup and tows all over the place, worth eyeballing his bits that work as a unit. There is stuff I have done that I forget until someone asks!
I would be over the legal limit on the trailer, and over my gross combined max of 20,000#, but I think I could haul four stacked flattened Prii with my Beast. And still make at least 35mph up a decent grade.
Going from 35 mph to 50 mph on same grade, same load will require a lot more horsepower, somewhere between 43% and 190% additional. Simple physics. The lower number assumes that drag force does not increase at all with increased speed, and your additional horsepower goes entirely into pushing that fixed drag force at higher speed. The math is 50/35. The higher number assumes that all your drag force is aerodynamic, and increases with the square of velocity, but then you need to also push that drag force at the higher speed. The math is (50/35) squared (for the drag force) times 50/35 (pushing the drag force at higher speed), for (50/35) cubed.
In reality, your drag force and the horsepower needed to overcome them is comprised of multiple components. Some are largely fixed horsepower that might increase with engine speed (engine & driveline friction, water / oil pumps), some are fixed drag where horsepower to overcome the drag increases linearly with speed (rolling resistance, grade drag). Not everything suck horsepower as bad as aerodynamics, where horsepower varies as the cube of speed.
The point is that going from 35 to 50 on a grade is going to cost... in horsepower, and thus dollars. And the dollars per additional horsepower won't be linear. Just trying to help you set realistic expectations.
