Rep points for that guidelines

 

@JayTheCPA Thank you VERY much for yet another helpful post for my project. So great to learn quickly from a towing veteran!

 

I've had great success with the beast since first towing test in March. Including one really heavy test this week that I hope to never repeat.


First load of oak. I believe this to have been 8,000# of oak in my 4,000# dump trailer, so pretty close to the GCVW of 20,000#.


Hope to never have to haul this much weight again. I rolled this config across the scales, and let's just say I was a Prius or so over a prudent GCVW. And yes, the operator loaded this oak too far forward. Beast delivered nonetheless.


Pretty sure we were below max weight on this mission.


Ditto this load.

 

Another successful tow in the books. Several hundred miles, a few climbs, close to GCWR. Slight fish-tailing tendencies just over 50mph, but the '97 delivered yet again. Beast of Burden for sure.

 

Sooooo, what are you doing with that Superduty??? Future project?

 

Planning to harvest the axles et al for conversion of my '97 dually to 4WD. Though there is an outside chance I resurrect (or attempt to resurrect) the 6.0L PSD in the donor vehicle first.

 

A couple of things to add that I didn't see.

I'm guessing you've already looked over the complete brake system. If you're going to open the brake system, and it's not already hydroboost, you might consider that. But going from vacuum boost to hydroboost is likely to find every existing weak spot in your braking system.

If there's not an additional transmission fluid cooler, add one. Sounds like you did well on fluid temps, but more cooling will help. An easy spot to put one is a long, thin unit inside the front bumper. Plumb it in series after the stock in-radiator cooler.

Power steering high pressure line. If it looks original, I suggest replacing now, before it fatigue cracks at the pump fitting and you revert to manual steering. Been there... And especially important if you're running hydroboost, stock or aftermarket, since no power steering then also means no power brakes.

If you have a vacuum brake booster, and the vacuum pump looks original, carefully check the neck of the pump, between the pulley bearings and the "flying saucer" pump head for fatigue cracks. When the neck fractures, no power brakes. Been there, too.

I don't know if it's the case for duallies, but Superduty single axles have a slightly different and non-interchangeable wheel bolt pattern than OBS single axles.

 

Sorry to be slow, but are your comments about the '97 OBS dually or the 2004 Super Duty dually?

 

Comments are about the OBS. But the Superduty is still 17 years old, so wear/tear/fatigue may also apply to it if you choose to repair it.

 

It was fun hauling the dump trailer, the donor F350, and the heavy log loads, but this is the best load yet. Looking forward to hitting the national parks, coast, canyons, etc., with the family. I'll warn them to bring headphones for the ride in the PSD cab.

 

Ok, now you have my my most desirable setup. Nice!!!!!

 

Nice. Dude.
Just keep a spare CPS, ICP, IPR and a long 1 1/8" socket to remove IPR, spare fuel filter. Long distance towing with these old trucks it's a must to carry those key item's around.

 

And a PSD Dictionary to decode all those acronyms! Thanks.

 

Your truck is looking great and performing quite well from what we all can see. I have a 2000 7.3L that I built as a long distance tow pig. We have towed heavy cross country many times and I am grateful for what these old engines can still do.

We averaged 12.3 MPG over 5,500 miles up to 9,000 ft ASL from GA to ID and back towing our 5th wheel.

I used to own an OBS, but it was a far cry from what yours is and I had to sell it in order to get into a SD.

Seeing trucks like yours is becoming more and more rare as the sun sets. Thank you so much for sharing your journey and adventures with us.

 

Brief update on my ongoing towing experiences with my '97 F350 CCLB Dually. Zero breakdowns, zero failures, zero leaks, zero issues since I bought it last Spring. Very pleased with how it has performed overall. Towing heavy log loads, heavy skidsteer, heavy dump runs, other trucks on trailer, and Airstream. Last weekend I pulled my Airstream a couple hours south. Not many hills, but just for fun I mashed the pedal a few times with Torque Pro connected, and recorded the following peak parameters (see red markers on each gauge below):

• InjPW max 2,400 uSec
• HPOP max 2,500 psi
• IPR max 35%
• Boost max 13psi

Truck is totally stock from a performance mod standpoint as best I can tell. I went back to my Torque data posted earlier this year, and peak parameters seem the same as in the spring. Welcome any comments on this data. I am certain I have boost leaks, with only 13psi, WOT, with ~8,000# on my hitch. That aside, I welcome any comments on these results. (Ignore yellow numbers, focus on red triangles.)


Torque Pro gauges, with high water on each marked by red triangles.

Regarding possible performance mods, I've gradually been absorbing ideas and experiences by others' posts, and am contemplating a series of mods as follows:

• Hydra -- already own one, just need to get it installed
• E-fuel
• Boost leak jihad
• Turbo upgrade / rebuild
• Bigger injectors
• New HPOP
• Valve springs
• Intercooler
• Replace any/all aging hoses
• Stock spare breakdown candidates (CPS, et al)

My truck has some excellent towing/reliability mods by original owner, including EGT and tranny temp gauge, auxiliary tranny cooler and fan, hardened E4OD tranny, replaced 3" down pipe, +40gal Transfer Flow 3rd tank, trailer brake controller. Original owner was all about 5th wheel camping, in style.

I think I am staying away from brake upgrades for now. Existing brakes seem just fine.

And since any list such as the above should be judged with goals first, here are my goals:

• More towing power. I don't need to be the first one to top of the pass, but I've had to slow to ~35mph when climbing at sea level towing 14,000#, and I'd prefer to be able to hold 50mph with that load, on that climb, if possible, without blowing trannies.
• Reliability. I think I'm going to own and love this beast for a while. I'd like to keep up the reliability record.
• Configurability. Cue the Hydra.
• Resale. Some day I may part with it, and I want prospective buyers to be impressed with the complete package.
• Unicorn. Converting to 4WD is a possible project ahead, and I bought an '04 SD CC SB Dually as possible drivetrain donor. Though that project is already costing me more than most of the above upgrades.

Welcome any input. To the nearest thousand dollars, and assuming I do most of the work myself, what would a quality parts list cost for the above upgrades? $5,000? More?