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replacing the IPR value

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Old Mar 14, 2021 | 08:18 AM
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replacing the IPR value

Can the IPR value be removed by removing the inner finder and go from under-neath the FICM ?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2021 | 10:26 PM
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That question should win some kind of award, just not sure what. Are you referring to an E-series, by chance?
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 07:34 AM
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Opps.. 2004 F350 SD.. , can the IPR value be remove after removing the driver side wheel and inter fender
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 07:57 AM
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I've never heard of anyone doing it that way. I know of a few folks that do it from underneath the truck. IMHO it's easier to remove the FICM than the fender liner because of all the wiring that's in that area, but that's just me.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by JimmyRoach
Opps.. 2004 F350 SD.. , can the IPR value be remove after removing the driver side wheel and inter fender
OK, maybe were confused on what the IPR is. Are you referring to the Injection Pressure Regulator? If so, the fender well and wheel have nothing to do with its removal.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 08:01 AM
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Maybe you mean the EBP sensor? The tube that runs from the driver's side exhaust up behind the degas bottle? It might be easier to remove with the fender well off, although I've never tried it.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 08:18 AM
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I'm sure he meant the IPR when he said under the FICM. I don't even drain the degas bottle, I just cap the small hose at the radiator and loop it around to the degas hose nipple from the intake, then roll the degas bottle forward to get it out of the way (after removing the air intake tubing to the turbo) and it's all right there. The most difficult thing is getting the back two FICM bolts out and in. Maybe I've just had too much practice--LOL.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 10:20 AM
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But, I can't even imagine taking off the wheel and fender well to get to the IPR. If he'd asked about coming at it through the dash I wouldn't have been more surprised.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
The most difficult thing is getting the back two FICM bolts out and in. Maybe I've just had too much practice--LOL.
I dunno...once you've figured out the right wrench/socket/ratchet? combo to get those back bolts, it's just the long reach. I have more problems getting the FICM connectors back together. And then, getting the IPR connector back on and the heat shield wrapped back in place, for whatever reason, always is a pain. Until I moved to ESeries. Have to say, nothing easier than swapping an IPR on the Eseries.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I'm sure he meant the IPR when he said under the FICM. I don't even drain the degas bottle, I just cap the small hose at the radiator and loop it around to the degas hose nipple from the intake, then roll the degas bottle forward to get it out of the way (after removing the air intake tubing to the turbo) and it's all right there. The most difficult thing is getting the back two FICM bolts out and in. Maybe I've just had too much practice--LOL.
Ok, I reread and I mistake it with the valve cover.
....
If someone recommend tools or workarounds removing those bolts, it would save alot of time. I use a flex head 12mm ratchet and it still takes alot of effort. A longtime ago, I used some combinations of sockets and small extensions, I got it out quicker, but I haven't tried it again, and don't remember what I used.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 02:35 PM
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I use a little palm-sized ratchet. Forget if a deep socket reaches it or a short extension and regular socket. To me, they're not so bad because you just have to break them loose. I'm assuming everyone has the big round, conical-shaped nut/washer - once they're loose, their large diameter provides enough leverage to get them out by hand.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 02:45 PM
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I'm still waiting for any guess as to how the wheel and wheel well liner figure into this - that is the OP's question, and I gotta think there's a reason for asking it. When he said "going under the FICM," I figured it either had to be Eseries, because the FICM is mounted on the inner fender on the Eseries, above the liner, so you'd be going under it coming from the wheel well (although you'd never get to the IPR from there), or the EBP tube, which is right there and could be easier with the wheel well open. Trying to get to the IPR on either Series from the wheel well, however, would require some Mission Impossible tech.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 04:03 PM
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Milwaukee 1/4 inch Drive ratchet/M12. Works great.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Visurveyor
Milwaukee 1/4 inch Drive ratchet/M12. Works great.
Yeah it does, but that's cheatin' and takes all the fun out of it.

Seriously, I use an 8mm flexhead gearwrench since my 3/8 drive Milwaukee doesn't fit back there. I wish I was good enough to do it from under the truck, but I don't trust myself to get all the wrappers and connectors back on like they need to be.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2021 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman

I wish I was good enough to do it from under the truck, .
WTH? You talking about reaching up over the bell housing? That's possible? You'd have to be groping blind, right? IDK, I've been off the Fseries for a bit now, but I can't imagine that from what I recall. It's a pretty straightforward job: air filter, degas, FICM, the IPR socket, and a long extension. If it's not been off in a while, it can be a real tough nut to crack, but that's about it. Just another day under the hood.
 
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