Replacement ECU compatibility (numbers not identical)
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Replacement ECU compatibility (numbers not identical)
Hi everyone,
A friend has diagnosed the ECU in my 1989 F150 as being the reason it won’t start. Local parts store and Rock Auto have a variety of remans, but the numbers are not identical. The manager at the local store says he’s not sure the replacement he’s offering is correct, and won’t guarantee it to work.
I’m hoping one of you can tell me for sure if this will work, or if I need to look on eBay or in junkyards. The original from the truck has E8TF-12A650-X2B.
The one offered is from Cardone, part 78-4469 and says it’s a replacement for E8TF XA and XB.
The friend who uninstalled it for me says they all have the 12A650, but he thinks the 2 is probably important, that X2A is not the same as XA. Does anyone know for sure?
Thanks!
ff6
A friend has diagnosed the ECU in my 1989 F150 as being the reason it won’t start. Local parts store and Rock Auto have a variety of remans, but the numbers are not identical. The manager at the local store says he’s not sure the replacement he’s offering is correct, and won’t guarantee it to work.
I’m hoping one of you can tell me for sure if this will work, or if I need to look on eBay or in junkyards. The original from the truck has E8TF-12A650-X2B.
The one offered is from Cardone, part 78-4469 and says it’s a replacement for E8TF XA and XB.
The friend who uninstalled it for me says they all have the 12A650, but he thinks the 2 is probably important, that X2A is not the same as XA. Does anyone know for sure?
Thanks!
ff6
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
Hi everyone,
A friend has diagnosed the ECU in my 1989 F150 as being the reason it won’t start. Local parts store and Rock Auto have a variety of remans, but the numbers are not identical. The manager at the local store says he’s not sure the replacement he’s offering is correct, and won’t guarantee it to work.
I’m hoping one of you can tell me for sure if this will work, or if I need to look on eBay or in junkyards. The original from the truck has E8TF-12A650-X2B.
The one offered is from Cardone, part 78-4469 and says it’s a replacement for E8TF XA and XB.
The friend who uninstalled it for me says they all have the 12A650, but he thinks the 2 is probably important, that X2A is not the same as XA. Does anyone know for sure?
Thanks!
ff6
A friend has diagnosed the ECU in my 1989 F150 as being the reason it won’t start. Local parts store and Rock Auto have a variety of remans, but the numbers are not identical. The manager at the local store says he’s not sure the replacement he’s offering is correct, and won’t guarantee it to work.
I’m hoping one of you can tell me for sure if this will work, or if I need to look on eBay or in junkyards. The original from the truck has E8TF-12A650-X2B.
The one offered is from Cardone, part 78-4469 and says it’s a replacement for E8TF XA and XB.
The friend who uninstalled it for me says they all have the 12A650, but he thinks the 2 is probably important, that X2A is not the same as XA. Does anyone know for sure?
Thanks!
ff6
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In case you were going to ask, the numbers are
8-51F-R00
E8AE-6E061-ACR.
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Send for repair
OK, I tried to do my own research, and found loads of places advertising they rebuild these. Any tips on choosing one that will do a good job? Thanks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
Ecmrepairs.com or if you want to swap just go carcomputerexchange.com as they have the largest inventory.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
A truck with a calibration number of 8-51F-R00 needs computer (ECU) number E8TZ 12A650-XB.
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Following up—not fixed yet
I sent the unit out to ecmrepairs.com. They told me they replaced a capacitor, cleaned up some acid damage, and checked a trace. Didn’t sound like a lot, but what do I know?
Got it back a few days ago, but didn’t install it until today because of “side effects” from my 2nd Pfizer shot.
Turned the key to “On.” Fuel pump ran continuously without shutting off. Cranked the engine. It turned over but did not catch. Exactly what it was doing before.
For good measure, we tested the fuel pump relay to make sure that it was not stuck closed, and with the module out, we tested for a short in the wiring harness that would cause the pump to run.
Will call the good folks at ecmrepairs.com tomorrow and find out what their “lifetime warranty” is worth.
Got it back a few days ago, but didn’t install it until today because of “side effects” from my 2nd Pfizer shot.
Turned the key to “On.” Fuel pump ran continuously without shutting off. Cranked the engine. It turned over but did not catch. Exactly what it was doing before.
For good measure, we tested the fuel pump relay to make sure that it was not stuck closed, and with the module out, we tested for a short in the wiring harness that would cause the pump to run.
Will call the good folks at ecmrepairs.com tomorrow and find out what their “lifetime warranty” is worth.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
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From: Easton,Ks
Even if you had bad wiring or relay that keep the pump running it would still start.
With that you know the clock is not running in the PCU (ECU).
Would be a bad PCU (ECU) or low voltage to the PCU (ECU).
To test the relay an wiring you would just unplug the PCM (ECU) and turn on the key.
If the pumps run now you know it is a bad relay or wiring.
If the pumps do not run you know it is a bad PCU (ECU).
With that you know the clock is not running in the PCU (ECU).
Would be a bad PCU (ECU) or low voltage to the PCU (ECU).
To test the relay an wiring you would just unplug the PCM (ECU) and turn on the key.
If the pumps run now you know it is a bad relay or wiring.
If the pumps do not run you know it is a bad PCU (ECU).
Last edited by subford; Mar 28, 2021 at 12:32 PM. Reason: add info
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Makes sense
Even if you had bad wiring or relay that keep the pump running it would still start.
With that you know the clock is not running in the PCU (ECU).
Would be a bad PCU (ECU) or low voltage to the PCU (ECU).
To test the relay an wiring you would just unplug the PCM (ECU) and turn on the key.
If the pumps run now you know it is a bad relay or wiring.
If the pumps do not run you know it is a bad PCU (ECU).
With that you know the clock is not running in the PCU (ECU).
Would be a bad PCU (ECU) or low voltage to the PCU (ECU).
To test the relay an wiring you would just unplug the PCM (ECU) and turn on the key.
If the pumps run now you know it is a bad relay or wiring.
If the pumps do not run you know it is a bad PCU (ECU).
Sending it back to let them try again. My confidence level in the service is not high at this point, though.
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