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Can anyone tell me what the burned out component is in this picture? I'd like to try replacing it, but don't know what to buy. The part number listed on it is 7L5F which I've tried Googling without success.
Ooh SMT stuff... that looks fun. I dunno what it is, but I'd bet the capacitors failing is probably what roasted it. You'll have to find a schematic somewhere. I wish you luck, let us know what you find.
So I desoldered one of the presumed good components to measure the resistance and it appears it's not a simple resistor. When I put the multimeter leads across the component it reads about 38 ohms and then decreases within about 3 seconds to about 0.2 ohms (almost a dead short)... so I'm not sure what this component really is. Does anyone have any idea as to what it is? Note that I get approximately the same measurements when trying to measure the resistance of the component when it is soldered in place. When trying to measure capacitance I get nothing.
Thanks for the info on posting pictures to the forum. Here's the picture again. Also thanks for the confirmation that it is a resistor. Can you tell me how many ohms a new resistor should measure?
Not having done that repair myself I can't really say. The board I had sort
of blew up and left me stranded on the side of the road. The correct repair
includes the large caps that are looking puffy. 2 yellow and the two black ones.
You have several duplicate circuits that have to be addressed to do the job right.
That resistor is part of the sense circuit as I understand it. There are how to
repair videos and some posting but they don't upgrade things and your still
going to have the weak spot in the circuit.
One thing you want to verify while you have this out is the batteries and charging system.
What the FICM does on the power side is multiply the power up to the 48VDC at quite a
few amps for each leg. If the power coming in is less than optimal the circuit has to work
that much harder and over time the weaker parts go POOF. Mind you that you could also
have problems on the logic side when you have a catastrophic failure that won't show until
it is back installed in the truck.
Like I said above give the people at FICMrepair a call they should be open this Saturday.
They have a good turn around time.
EDIT: When that cap went it also took out a 50A fuse.
I live in Arizona so I have the luxury to drive down to BulletProofDiesel and buy myself a new ficm that come with 48 volts 52 volts and 54 volts options I used 52 volts to keep my injectors happy not to overwork them the ficm cost about $700 is lifetime guarantee and you never have to worry about a ficm problem ever in your life plus they look really nice in the truck, my opinion
I have had FICM issues with my first F250. But I also came to the conclusion the root of its evil was the charging system.
Run a 190 amp and larger along with a few cable upgrades for charging and grounds and FICM issues are far behind you.
The 110 amp alternators are shameful and as soon as a battery becomes weak you are going to be destroying that FICM. I would reflow the solder on the power board of the DC/DC converter and spend the money on a alternator.
+ 1 on FICMrepair.com. They were really good to me and seemed to be about the best value. Ed called to make sure I really needed one before sending it off.
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