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My 2003 won't start on the first try. Cranks, but no start. Then it will start on the second or third try and run normally. I got the rental fuel pressure tester kit from the local O'Reilly, but I was unable to get any reading on the gauge with the key turned to "on" or with the engine running. The rental kit had an adaptor that fit over the schrader valve, then the hose from the gauge connected to the adaptor. I was wondering if the adaptor was just not getting deep enough into the schrader valve body to depress the valve.
I put the key to "on" then depressed the valve and some fuel squirted out. So it seems that the valve does work when depressed.
Do I need some special adaptor to get a reading on the gauge?
I've never had to do it on my (now sold) V10, so I can't answer as to how easy it is to remove/replace. If you can work on the opposite side of things without directly seeing what you're working on, that helps
I can say that with the go-pedal test, that is most likely the cause. You might have a vacuum leak, so check for that before you go nuts. Clean the MAF too... make sure it runs OK, and still does the no-start thing. If it does, replace the IAC.
I'd replace the gasket too - better to have it on hand and not need it than to have to find one after the old one won't come off. And I'd still use the new one anyway
Other symptoms of a sticking IAC are hunting for an idle, stalling when putting it in drive or reverse, stalling when you put the AC on, that sort of thing.
I ordered a new IAC from Amazon (Standard Motor Products, China) for $49. While I was waiting for the part, I decided to take off the OEM IAC, clean it, reinstall it, and see if that solved the problem. Getting the IAC off is really not that bad. To create space, I removed the vacuum line from the brake booster at the brake booster end only then pivoted it out of the way. Then I removed the larger air hose running from the back of the IAC to the air intake. That hose was slightly stubborn at the IAC end, but came off fairly quickly by using a non-sharp plastic trim tool to push the hose end toward the firewall. The electrical connector on the IAC came off surprisingly easy with almost no fight by pushing down on the tab on the side of the connector while pulling the connector toward the firewall.
At this point, access to the two 8mm bolts (upper and lower) that secure the IAC to the throttle body is fairly good while standing on a stool and leaning over the driver side fender. I was able to break each bolt loose using a deep socket and a ratchet. Neither was torqued down too tight or frozen. Once broken, I used the deep socket in my fingers to spin out each bolt, which have quite a few threads. The IAC came off in my hand and the OEM gasket remained on the throttle body.
I cleaned the IAC with carb and choke cleaner and q-tips, which was what I had on hand, then let it dry for a few hours. I wiped off both mating surfaces and then I reinstalled the IAC. The truck strarted right up the first time and idled smoothly. I shut off the truck and restarted and that second start was smooth also.
So the IAC does appear to have been the problem. I need to take it for longer drive at speed to make sure that everything sounds good and that it drives smoothly. At the moment, the problem appears to be solved and I will likely just return the Amazon part that I ordered..
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