2001 7.3 NO START
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2001 7.3 NO START
Howdy, I am helping a friend with a '01 7.3 F550,
He bought it with no oil in it, rusted through the filter, put oil in it and it didnt start there so trailered it home,
Tried starting it to back it of the trailer, fired right up and ran flawlessly for about 5 seconds and stalled, tried starting again and fired right up and ran,
Went to go move it a couple days later, tried to start it, nothing, tried again a couple minutes later and ran flawlessly,
He got it in his shop, went to move it after a hour and it wouldnt start and thats where it sits,
Only had one battery and was cranking at 8.5 volts, knew that was never going to start it so I told him to go get brand new batteries and now it cranks at 11 volts, solved that issue,
Cranking its giving 2200 PSI of HPOP, has fuel pressure (not sure how much all I know is it sprays out with the key on and filter loose) and I can hear the injectors clicking, but alas no starting,
Checked the basic things like WTS light is coming on (fuel heater is unplugged) and the tach is moving no issue,
My guess could be cranking with low voltage killed the ECU or IDM?
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
He bought it with no oil in it, rusted through the filter, put oil in it and it didnt start there so trailered it home,
Tried starting it to back it of the trailer, fired right up and ran flawlessly for about 5 seconds and stalled, tried starting again and fired right up and ran,
Went to go move it a couple days later, tried to start it, nothing, tried again a couple minutes later and ran flawlessly,
He got it in his shop, went to move it after a hour and it wouldnt start and thats where it sits,
Only had one battery and was cranking at 8.5 volts, knew that was never going to start it so I told him to go get brand new batteries and now it cranks at 11 volts, solved that issue,
Cranking its giving 2200 PSI of HPOP, has fuel pressure (not sure how much all I know is it sprays out with the key on and filter loose) and I can hear the injectors clicking, but alas no starting,
Checked the basic things like WTS light is coming on (fuel heater is unplugged) and the tach is moving no issue,
My guess could be cranking with low voltage killed the ECU or IDM?
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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I will admit ether has been used, I am completely aware it is very frowned upon but I at least made him disconnect the glow plugs first, he is pretty desperate as it did run and he had bought it as a quick flip but cant sell it for much not running,
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
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From: Muskogee, Ok
Wouldn't think the engine would need a rebuild. That's waaay down the list of possibilities. Unplugging the ICP would be the next step, pulling valve covers and watching injector oil spouts would be a while after that, a ways after that would be rebuilding injectors. But there's many steps to do before anything gets crazy with any new parts or money spent.
Make sure the oil level is good on the dipstick, over 1/4 tank of fuel, try starting with icp unplugged. Then test fuel pressure off the fuel bowl drain line. A 550 would have a metal tank right? Known for delaminating paint on the inside clogging the fuel socks
Make sure the oil level is good on the dipstick, over 1/4 tank of fuel, try starting with icp unplugged. Then test fuel pressure off the fuel bowl drain line. A 550 would have a metal tank right? Known for delaminating paint on the inside clogging the fuel socks
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Unplugging the ICP changed nothing, I am wondering if the IPR needs replaced?
My daily (97 7.3) did this a while ago, diesel ate through the wire insulation going to the IPR and caused a no start with these symptoms, do the IPRs go bad?
My daily (97 7.3) did this a while ago, diesel ate through the wire insulation going to the IPR and caused a no start with these symptoms, do the IPRs go bad?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Ponca City, OK
Isn't 2200 psi the pcm default reading while cranking w/ icp sensor disconnected? Good chance some wiring/sensors need some attention. If it sat a long time rats and mice may have had a field day in there.
Logistics Pro
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From: Muskogee, Ok
They do. I actually had a co-worker tell me about his trouble with his one day, granted it was a 6.0, but he finally found his IPR had a small piece of styrofoam like from the seal of an oil jug or additive bottle, that had wedged into the hole in the side of the IPR causing his trouble
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I thout the 2200 was default as well but it fluctuates plus or minus at least 200 PSI, 2200 was just a average number I saw, With the IPR sensor unplugged it does trip the check engine light and gives a steady reading of about 2300 so I ruled that out,
I will have him buy an IPR, much cheaper then a ECU or IDM I am afraid has bad from low voltage, I may have him pull it out and look for anything obvious first as he is not one for parts throwing, but I guess there is a possibility that the issue is internal to the regulator
I will have him buy an IPR, much cheaper then a ECU or IDM I am afraid has bad from low voltage, I may have him pull it out and look for anything obvious first as he is not one for parts throwing, but I guess there is a possibility that the issue is internal to the regulator
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Ok, Sweet I will have to look into that, Do you know of any way to bench test one to see if it works before we re install it?
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Douglassville, PA
Yeah but if the failure is the solenoid, that won't help it.
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If there is a piece of crud or something jamming the valve it could prevent the valve from letting oil to the injectors and firing, I know for a fact if the wires are shorted or disconnected causing the valve to fully close it will not fire but the injectors will still make noises,
Hotshot
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From: Douglassville, PA
If there is a piece of crud or something jamming the valve it could prevent the valve from letting oil to the injectors and firing, I know for a fact if the wires are shorted or disconnected causing the valve to fully close it will not fire but the injectors will still make noises,
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Elk Grove, CA
If the high pressure oil psi is changing depending on the ICP being plugged in, that suggests the IPR is working. Should fluctuate more than 100 psi of course.
In addition to the things to check above, get a way to do a buzz test. Forscan with blue tooth dongle or whatever.
And check the underside of the harness that runs to the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover, it can chafe on the VCs and cause shorts.
In addition to the things to check above, get a way to do a buzz test. Forscan with blue tooth dongle or whatever.
And check the underside of the harness that runs to the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover, it can chafe on the VCs and cause shorts.
Lead Driver
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From: Ponca City, OK
You can briefly apply 12v to the solenoid and should feel the "click". As for pressure testing, I've seen a guy rig shop air to the tip while engaging and disengaging the solenoid. This can verify it is working but nowhere near the actual pressure the valve will have to preform at.