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My newly acquired 68 f100 360 truck is running warm. Normally I wouldn't be too worried but I live in Texas and if its like this now I am worried when it really gets hot I'm screwed. The stock temp gauge needle sits on the M in the temp gauge while going down the highway but if I am stopped idling like at a drive through it starts moving to the end of safe temp range (I never let it idle longer to be safe). I have a autometer temp gauge in the mail to verify the actual temp.
The previous owner did:
- champion 3 row radiator cc433
- new water pump
- thermostat housing & 180 thermostat (found receipt for the thermostat housing but not thermostat so not sure if its really 180)
- edlebrock intake
There is no fan shroud which I thought was weird but see 4x4's didn't get them. Im planning on doing a gm alternator conversion and vintage air.I was thinking I might switch the mechanical fan and go electric fan like a contour fan or maybe spal's. Has anyone run into this or any suggestions?
I bet it's the lack of shroud. If you can't get a good fitting shroud try an aftermarket shroud and electric fan. My preference is a full aluminum piece that mounts to the radiator frame and does not touch the fins. The plastic ones that mount with pushpins through the core will destroy a good rad. Kss makes one that i have installed on two trucks, love them.
I bet it's the lack of shroud. If you can't get a good fitting shroud try an aftermarket shroud and electric fan. My preference is a full aluminum piece that mounts to the radiator frame and does not touch the fins. The plastic ones that mount with pushpins through the core will destroy a good rad. Kss makes one that i have installed on two trucks, love them.
That is what I was thinking too. With it being ok on the highway I do not think it is a flow issue. I did see where some people mentioned timing 10 degrees btdc seem to be ideal? I know stock is 6. I have a contour fan arriving today. I will see if I can mount it to the radiator cleanly if not go the aluminum plate style from champion for the radiator. I heard great things about the contour so popped for on on ebay.
Might verify timing...both initial timing without vacuum and make sure vacuum advance (if you have it) is working. Also measure belt pulleys. Pulley on crank should be equal or bigger in diameter than pulley on fan/water pump.
I added a shroud and a 6 blade fan...seems to pull a lot more air when sitting still.
An easy check is the coolant itself. If it’s contaminated, flush with distilled water until clear. A 50-50 mix of undiluted coolant and distilled water should be the goal. Hydrometers are cheap and can diagnose your mix. With all of those parts previously replaced, the PO must have had problems with the cooling system.
My truck has no shroud, and a mechanical fan. It always runs on the cool side, which can be difficult to get heat into the cab. I flush and replace my coolant every 3 years and have had no problems. Good luck.
I burped the system again and it doesn't seems to be spiking. Now it sits around the left side of the M in temp and gets to the middle of the M worst case.
I did order an aluminum fan shroud with spal fans with a dakota digital fan control and a new flowkontrol 180 thermosat too. Doing vintage ac shortly and thought might as well.
I burped the system again and it doesn't seems to be spiking. Now it sits around the left side of the M in temp and gets to the middle of the M worst case.
I did order an aluminum fan shroud with spal fans with a dakota digital fan control and a new flowkontrol 180 thermosat too. Doing vintage ac shortly and thought might as well.
you may need to convert to a 3g alternator if you haven’t already. Electric motors need a decent amount of amps and the stock alt is only capable of like 60amps at best.
you may need to convert to a 3g alternator if you haven’t already. Electric motors need a decent amount of amps and the stock alt is only capable of like 60amps at best.
Yup! Converting to a 10si 140amp using the cvf racing adapter. Not a fan of 3g in non serpentine cars. My mustang had to run a double belt for it to be quiet.
I think you can replace the regulator on the 3g alt with one that has a “soft start” mechanism but otherwise yeah if your alt can handle it then go with electric if that’s your preference.
I think you can replace the regulator on the 3g alt with one that has a “soft start” mechanism but otherwise yeah if your alt can handle it then go with electric if that’s your preference.
Yeah i tried all that in my mustang. It a pa performance unit and talked to the tech support a ton. Got frustrated and gave up. Thought I would give this a shot and see how it works.
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