Thermostat
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 468
Likes: 9
From: Alabama
Thermostat
I have ma 66 Ford F-250 that has a 300 engine from a 75. The temp gauge runs right next to the hot line but the truck doesn't boil. I have switched from a 195 to a 180 degree thermostat. I am going to add ac. Should I switch to a 170 thermostat? Should I add a fan shroud? Should I get a gauge and see what the actual water temp is?
Thanks for ya'lls help!
Thanks for ya'lls help!
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
You should absolutely use a mechanical gauge to observe the actual temperature. The factory electrical gauge is meant as a warning system more than anything - it's not possible to correlate absolute engine temperature with the position of the needle.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
X2 Yes, a fan shroud will help with cooling. Lowering the thermostat or removing can actually hurt the ability of the system to cool properly. Deposits built up in the radiator and cooling passages in the block contribute to most overheating problems.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: Ocala,Florida
Good luck finding a fan shrould for a 300 six,I been looking for 4 years and have not found one,also I have a/c on mine and I'm running a 165 degree thermostat here in Florida and not a problem,but I did go to a flex fan on the engine
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Yup, I don't believe I've ever seen a 300 with much of a fan shroud. Mine pretty much had a 1 1/2 foot wide "finger protector" that said CAUTION on it that bolted onto the radiator. Not much of a shroud and I don't believe it did anything.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
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From: Near Los Angeles
In the event you do need more cooling ability, you might want to think about an electric fan. You can pick one up from the junkyard for about $30, with its own shroud, and it'll cool much better than the manual fan. I am very pleased with mine.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 468
Likes: 9
From: Alabama
With mechanical gauge engine runs about 180. When sitting and idling it climbs to 190-200. I am fixing to add a dealer installed a/c unit. Truck has a 180 thermostat. Should I change to a 170 or 160?
Thank You!
Thank You!
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
The tie-down tie system is crap, IMO. If I were you, I would figure out a way to mount it w/o those cheap ties. You can look up a thread of mine: radiator swap.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
Running a lower temp thermostat will not help in preventing overheating. All it will do is lower the temp when you are running down the road with lots of air flow and the radiator is not at max use. This will only accomplish one thing and that will be to lower your engine efficiency. (Lower mpg) This is not a good idea. Running your engine between 180 and 190 is good. !50-160-not good. Good luck, Jag
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
**Notes: The fans on the F. Taurus are known to be high volume. The late model Saab 93's have a nice dual set-up. With the 4.9 it is all about thickness. However, the nice thing about duals is they allow a bit of movement/placement of a pulley between the fans.
A concern with the electrics is how many amps they are drawing, and whether your alternator can keep up.
Good luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,712
Likes: 1
From: Atlanta, Georgia, USA
My quick & dirty $0.02:
Carbureted engines run best with a 180 T-stat. Anything less and you'll find sludge if you remove a valve cover. Synthetic won't leave sludge even at 160, but the carb will idle better at 180- and I wholeheartedly support the notion that going less than 180 will not improve cooling efficiency- I think that is wise advice! If you go to a 195 you'll probably get problems with pinging. For tuning and drivability, the 180 seems to be the optimal trade-off.
Fuel injected motors like the 195's- and though I'm a Georgia boy all my life, I'm also a man of service and I've been to every corner of this great country, and when I've been blessed to visit the great northern and western states at great elevation I've sure loved having the heater from my 195!
F-250's got some great value advice for putting together a solid and cheap system. I've always done it the expensive way because I'm not as wise but I'm learning! A good hybrid solution might be to use an aftermarket relay with adjustable fan 'stat from Jegs or Summit (usually $30-40) and boneyard fans, but there may be a way to do a relay with stock-replacement parts too. I defer to the experts for that...
Carbureted engines run best with a 180 T-stat. Anything less and you'll find sludge if you remove a valve cover. Synthetic won't leave sludge even at 160, but the carb will idle better at 180- and I wholeheartedly support the notion that going less than 180 will not improve cooling efficiency- I think that is wise advice! If you go to a 195 you'll probably get problems with pinging. For tuning and drivability, the 180 seems to be the optimal trade-off.
Fuel injected motors like the 195's- and though I'm a Georgia boy all my life, I'm also a man of service and I've been to every corner of this great country, and when I've been blessed to visit the great northern and western states at great elevation I've sure loved having the heater from my 195!
F-250's got some great value advice for putting together a solid and cheap system. I've always done it the expensive way because I'm not as wise but I'm learning! A good hybrid solution might be to use an aftermarket relay with adjustable fan 'stat from Jegs or Summit (usually $30-40) and boneyard fans, but there may be a way to do a relay with stock-replacement parts too. I defer to the experts for that...