No crank no start
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No crank no start
Howdy Folks I've got a problem with a 2003 6.0 Ford F-250 to give you a quick rundown I was driving down the road from my house all of a sudden my truck just cut out like somebody turn the ignition off but all my gauges all my lights everything works close to the side of the road stopped put it in park and tried to crank the engine over the engine will not crank over won't do anything no starter clicks no nothing I checked all the fuses connection those are all fine I also did the starter solenoid bypass touching it to the positive cable yeah it should be started with cranky engine over but the engine will not fire up with the key all the way on the truck set for 9 years or Plus finally got it running a few months ago but I have never change the fuel filters in it in that time I just wonder if maybe a fuel filter problem if that may cause the truck not to fire I had another diesel mechanic tell me that possibly the primary filter water separator might be clogged up so it's not giving a fuel delivery did it needs is that something that is possible
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No. Crank no start
Okay to give a quick rundown I have replaced the ICP I have replaced the IPR both of them malfunctioning went out it also has a new rebuilt ficm I have tested all three of those and all three of them are fine there's power to the ficm power to the starter power to everything but it's does not want to crank over and did not want to fire up does anybody have any ideas or if heard anything about the fuel filters not allowing engine to start please help it's my only truck
Fleet Owner
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1. verify that that the secondary fuel filter bowl will fill up quickly with the key on. If it doesn't, then we need to troubleshoot the fuel system.
2. get a good code reader (like ForScan Lite on your smartphone with an OBDII adapter)
3. read and post codes
4. when attempting to crank, use that same app to get the following parameter information:
- FICM sync
- Cam/crank sync
- vreference voltage
- fuel pulse width
If you do not know how to get all of the above information, just say so. We can walk you through it.
2. get a good code reader (like ForScan Lite on your smartphone with an OBDII adapter)
3. read and post codes
4. when attempting to crank, use that same app to get the following parameter information:
- FICM sync
- Cam/crank sync
- vreference voltage
- fuel pulse width
If you do not know how to get all of the above information, just say so. We can walk you through it.
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i have also used a scan2 and plugit in and will not connect
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When that happens, more than likely you have fuse #22 blown, but it could also be fuse #12
If there is no power to fuse 22:
The ignition switch receives power from fuse 116. Power from this fuse directs power to close the PCM Power relay (302) which in turn provides power to fuse 22.
Verify that there is power to relay 302 with the ignition in the run position. It is a Red wire with a Light Green stripe (RD/LG). This RD/LG wire also provides power to the FICM.
Also, ground G100 is necessary for the PCM relay to work - harness ground to the firewall (by the master cylinder). Verify it isn't damaged and is making a solid electrical connection.
If there is no power to fuse 22:
The ignition switch receives power from fuse 116. Power from this fuse directs power to close the PCM Power relay (302) which in turn provides power to fuse 22.
Verify that there is power to relay 302 with the ignition in the run position. It is a Red wire with a Light Green stripe (RD/LG). This RD/LG wire also provides power to the FICM.
Also, ground G100 is necessary for the PCM relay to work - harness ground to the firewall (by the master cylinder). Verify it isn't damaged and is making a solid electrical connection.
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Fleet Owner
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Is fuse #22 getting power with the key on?
Are you aware that a fuse may look good and not be good? In other words, will that fuse actually pass the desired amps? It is easy to throw in a new one. You probably know all that, but we have no way of knowing what you have done to verify the fuses.
As I posted above:
If there is no power to fuse 22:
The ignition switch receives power from fuse 116. Power from this fuse directs power to close the PCM Power relay (302) which in turn provides power to fuse 22.
Verify that there is power to relay 302 with the ignition in the run position. It is a Red wire with a Light Green stripe (RD/LG). This RD/LG wire also provides power to the FICM.
Also, ground G100 is necessary for the PCM relay to work - harness ground to the firewall (by the master cylinder). Verify it isn't damaged and is making a solid electrical connection.
Are you aware that a fuse may look good and not be good? In other words, will that fuse actually pass the desired amps? It is easy to throw in a new one. You probably know all that, but we have no way of knowing what you have done to verify the fuses.
As I posted above:
If there is no power to fuse 22:
The ignition switch receives power from fuse 116. Power from this fuse directs power to close the PCM Power relay (302) which in turn provides power to fuse 22.
Verify that there is power to relay 302 with the ignition in the run position. It is a Red wire with a Light Green stripe (RD/LG). This RD/LG wire also provides power to the FICM.
Also, ground G100 is necessary for the PCM relay to work - harness ground to the firewall (by the master cylinder). Verify it isn't damaged and is making a solid electrical connection.
.
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