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https://www.bbb.org/us/fl/pensacola/...170/complaints
That complaint sounds similar to the issue you seem to be having.....it's not my place to bash the business since I have no experience with them
BUT I cannot tell you to do something that could void your warranty... I can only suggest what the problem COULD be by the symptoms that you are posting.
https://www.bbb.org/us/fl/pensacola/...170/complaints
That complaint sounds similar to the issue you seem to be having.....it's not my place to bash the business since I have no experience with them
BUT I cannot tell you to do something that could void your warranty... I can only suggest what the problem COULD be by the symptoms that you are posting.
so I actually just got off the phone with them, they were very helpful and said that I can take the top cover off and inspect the metering valve and such and it will not void my warranty. I’ll check that when I get the chance and I’ll also look into the link you posted
I'll give you this on how to put the cover back on.
IF the cover is installed wrong it will cause problems.... it comes off real easy.. and if ya watch the Video of "Be the Fuel" you should have an understanding of what is going on.
I'm sure there are plenty of other boobtube videos on the subject ...BUT you don't want to "Adjust " anything you just want to make sure the Metering valve is free and not sticking...you do not need to disassemble anything other than the 3 screws that hold the cover on. A Torque screwdriver such as Utica torque limiter is real handy. or any Quality 1/4 drive torque wrench that meets the range requirements.
I'll give you this on how to put the cover back on.
IF the cover is installed wrong it will cause problems.... it comes off real easy.. and if ya watch the Video of "Be the Fuel" you should have an understanding of what is going on.
I'm sure there are plenty of other boobtube videos on the subject ...BUT you don't want to "Adjust " anything you just want to make sure the Metering valve is free and not sticking...you do not need to disassemble anything other than the 3 screws that hold the cover on. A Torque screwdriver such as Utica torque limiter is real handy. or any Quality 1/4 drive torque wrench that meets the range requirements.
Okay, thank you so much I really appreciate all the help and support. I’ll get to it as soon as I can and report back if I’m able to get it going. This is kind of a dumb question, but what If i try and start it off of ether to see if it running will help get fuel from the pump?
IF you are going to try either then you need to disable the Glow system first.
BUT if you are not getting any fuel out of the IP Head and into the Lines I doubt it will be much help... you sure don't want to push either hard enough to try keep it running.
the injectors all have a Calibrated leak and a good working IP will self bleed pretty quick.... BUT as you say you are getting no fuel out of the Hydraulic Head but you are getting flow out the IP return line..so it sounds like you are making Transfer Pressure.
IF you are going to try either then you need to disable the Glow system first.
BUT if you are not getting any fuel out of the IP Head and into the Lines I doubt it will be much help... you sure don't want to push either hard enough to try keep it running.
the injectors all have a Calibrated leak and a good working IP will self bleed pretty quick.... BUT as you say you are getting no fuel out of the Hydraulic Head but you are getting flow out the IP return line..so it sounds like you are making Transfer Pressure.
yes, I am getting fuel on the return side. And I know not to push and mess with anything too hard inside the pump. I just want my dang truck back lol
You will get fuel to the top of the pump, but none to the injectors if the fuel shutoff is bad. You might feed the returns too if the fuel pressure builds up in the pump. But maybe a check valve in there? Test the fsv.
You will get fuel to the top of the pump, but none to the injectors if the fuel shutoff is bad. You might feed the returns too if the fuel pressure builds up in the pump. But maybe a check valve in there? Test the fsv.
We verified that in post #4 and #5 I believe.... BUT correct IF the ETR Armature does not release the Governor control of the metering valve then no discharge fuel.
fuel pressure builds in the housing to around about 4 or so psi and then the housing pressure regulator opens allowing fuel out the return ..this pressure is made by the Transfer pump inside the IP.... we have that flow..... IF the return was blocked then you would not get plunger action due to transfer equalization, but again this issue has already been dispelled.
since we have Lift pump flow in both supply and return we do not have an issue with FTSV. ...which could cause a non- starting issue.
your points are all things that must be checked.
sorry, i just saw this. i would just return everything and get a pump from a better company.
pensicola has a reputation that is about equal to a south of the border house of ill repute.
there is no guarantee what you will get from them, except for not what you were looking for.
their reputation around FTE is for selling pure junk.
sorry, i just saw this. i would just return everything and get a pump from a better company.
pensicola has a reputation that is about equal to a south of the border house of ill repute.
there is no guarantee what you will get from them, except for not what you were looking for.
their reputation around FTE is for selling pure junk.
I think I kinda mentioned that but I didn't want to bash the company else I might get reported
I can only help as much as I can .............................if it is issues other than the metering valve being stuck ... then you 100% right
