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I recently ordered and am currently installing a new injection pump from Pensacola diesel injection. I’ve got everything installed and I’m getting fuel from the lift pump to the injection pump, but no fuel to my injectors from the injection pump. The pump is filling with fuel but not sending it out. Any suggestions? I’m at a complete loss.
I took a line off of the pump directly to make sure I was getting fuel and no fuel is coming out of the injection pump at all to even be able to bleed the air.
make sure you have 12 volts on the ETR (fuel shut off solenoid) connect all the lines and just crack 1 line ... leaving multiple lines open can cause air lock of the IP
Hold it at WOT too
make sure you have 12 volts on the ETR (fuel shut off solenoid) connect all the lines and just crack 1 line ... leaving multiple lines open can cause air lock of the IP
Hold it at WOT too
okay, I had no idea that they can airlock. So should I fully tighten all the lines except one? Just want to add I have all 8 new glow plugs and wires as well as the injector caps and o-rings are all new and return lines are all new.
Update, I’m getting 12 volts to the plug, and I reattached all my fuel lines and just cracked one open and I’m still not getting any fuel out of it.
well you don't have to torque all the lines to spec.. but they should all be tight enough to not leak .
The stanadyne DB2 pump manual states they can air lock if multiple lines are left loose.
generally when I change a pump I disconnect Glow function until I see that I have fuel to the injectors.....(my truck uses manual Glow so no issue)
I think also that many rebuilders have pumps that might sit on the shelf for a good while and the metering valve will stick closed. (I've personally seen this with new pumps)
I am lucky enough to have a lathe that I can test run a pump before installing it on an engine so I know the pump is primed when it is installed....I know most folks are not that lucky.
well you don't have to torque all the lines to spec.. but they should all be tight enough to not leak .
The stanadyne DB2 pump manual states they can air lock if multiple lines are left loose.
generally when I change a pump I disconnect Glow function until I see that I have fuel to the injectors.....(my truck uses manual Glow so no issue)
I think also that many rebuilders have pumps that might sit on the shelf for a good while and the metering valve will stick closed. (I've personally seen this with new pumps)
I am lucky enough to have a lathe that I can test run a pump before installing it on an engine so I know the pump is primed when it is installed....I know most folks are not that lucky.
Yea I am definitely not that lucky. Where is the metering valve and how would I check it and adjust it to make sure it isn’t stuck?
as you can see IF the metering valve is stuck closed you will get no Fuel to the injectors.
I think there are a couple Boobtube videos on it too
it takes Care to re-install the top cover if you remove it and it might VOID any warranty you have so you might want to contact your seller and see what they suggest.
as you can see IF the metering valve is stuck closed you will get no Fuel to the injectors.
I think there are a couple Boobtube videos on it too
it takes Care to re-install the top cover if you remove it and it might VOID any warranty you have so you might want to contact your seller and see what they suggest.
so can I adjust the metering valve without taking it apart? My new pump has what looks like a lock nut with an Allen head bolt going through it that has an arm that I’m assuming is what going through the springs in the picture you posted.
that spring assembly is not to be messed with... that is for droop adjustment .. you do not adjust the metering valve.... the Red Arrow points to the metering valve it spins in it's bore in the hydraulic Head..... the ETR solenoid holds it closed when there is no power applied. (this is why they will sometimes stick when they sit on the shelf)
you don't want to mess with any adjustments... your rebuilder should have made all the proper adjustments when they did the Pump Calibration.
again I'll say call them up first before you go messing inside the pump as you could VOID your warranty.
that spring assembly is not to be messed with... that is for droop adjustment .. you do not adjust the metering valve.... the Red Arrow points to the metering valve it spins in it's bore in the hydraulic Head..... the ETR solenoid holds it closed when there is no power applied. (this is why they will sometimes stick when they sit on the shelf)
you don't want to mess with any adjustments... your rebuilder should have made all the proper adjustments when they did the Pump Calibration.
again I'll say call them up first before you go messing inside the pump as you could VOID your warranty.
Okay, so if I can’t/ shouldn’t mess with any of this because of warranty and the company I purchased from hasn’t responded yet, is there anything I can do?
