Yup, that's why I disabled it on my truck 6 years ago. Nothing but now.

 

Yeah, I'm leaning that way. I'd love to know how to disable it as mentioned. I've seen some things that might be related in Forscan but without some instruction/explanation I'm not going there.

 

It's easy, just unplug the inductive ring near the battery negative post. You can leave the ring on. Unplug #10

Don't mess with the one on the positive cable.

 

Well,that was simple enough. Thanks!

 

Welcome...

 

I was having the same issue on my 2013 F150 a bit ago - Low battery so shutting off message. The battery was only 1 year old. Had it tested at autozone three times. Thought it was the starter pulling to many amps.

Monitored for current drain several times overnight with no current drains, After I got stuck at the grocery store - took it to NTB. The did an extended test and the battery, although would charge, would not put out the right amount of cranking amps.

Put an Interstate battery in and no issues since. Still have the BMS connected so it was doing it's job shutting off the accessories with the old battery..

Was able to show autozone the test results and they refunded the cost of the duralast battery.

Just sharing my experience with this as it was a frustrating several weeks!
tim

 

Well... i tested again today. After setting a week, i drove it 15 minutes to town.. Shut off and turned on the radio.. BMS shut it off within 1 minute with the "NOTE" on the screen... Went home and put it on the 6 amp charger. Dropped to 3 amps in 5 hours and 0 amps at 10 hours..... So i put a 30 amp/ hour charge ( average) into a 1000 amp battery and it "FIXED IT"... RIGHT ! ... im thinking the system does not have a clue what is going on.. I was resisting pulling the wire off coil, but i think that is tomorrows job !

 

You wont regret it that much is certain.

 

I finally disconnected it on my 2012 after tiring of the constant low battery alarms when I’d turn the truck on if it hadn’t been driven in a few days. I had checked for parasitic draw (nothing but the KAM for EEC and the radio), went through a couple of batteries, and it still kept happening. My radio would show 11.8-11.9v when I would turn the truck on with the battery management still active before crank, now it is almost always showing 12.2-12.3. Ford’s programming for that system just wasn’t keeping the battery charged.

 

While the concept of the BMS (IMO) has merit and value, whatever bozo (er, team and/or individual) that did the programming was (again IMO) a get-it-out-the-door hack. The programming couldn't have had code and test-team reviews; or if it did, it was headed-up by someone blind, stupid, ignorant, and/or a combination of all of the above.

That being said ...

How frickin' difficult is it to turn-off every accessory (radio, EATC, etc.), unplug every device from the auxiliary outlets, insure that the transmission lever registers P(ark), AND remove the damn ignition key when the vehicle is turned-off?

Sure, there could be other electrical issues (e.g. shorts) that could cause parasitic draw, but that's just the way-of-life.

Me: 10-years+ on the original, off the assembly line Motorcraft battery. So I'll take the miniscule MPG and HP performance improvements that were/are the benefits of the BMS.

Background:

 

The BMS on these year model trucks, 2011-2014 is hit or miss if it works properly, mostly miss. Disconnect that sensor and be done with the headache. If it's working leave it alone.

 

I'm glad yours works well, good for you. Mine used to work well. Until I had the battery replaced at my local Ford dealer. I chose them after reading of all the BMS difficulties when not using them. But lo & behold, all the problems popped up. I'm usually a "turn off truck, get out" kind of guy but the 2% of the time I want to hear the rest of the news item on the radio, it shouldn't be turned off in less than a minute by the BSM telling my I have low battery power. Yes, I did the several different "resets", nothing helped. I went back to the dealer- "it'll cost ya!" Nope.

I agree with the above- if it's problematic, unplug it. If it's working fine, leave it alone.

 

ever since RX recommended i unplug it, I haven't had an issue...even with the cheepo generic battery the Chevy dealer put in it.

 

Is there a trick to gritting it unplugged. Mine won’t come loose

 

Squeeze the tab then pull.