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Just been out and about getting shopping and stuff, my key fob fell apart & despite retracing my steps, I couldn't find the battery or the back of the fob. Tried to unlock the doors with the key (both driver & passenger sides) neither side would lift the button enough for the handle to open the door......
Eventually I managed to jiggle both the lock & the handle enough to get in, it was around 28°f & I was running out of patience......I need to address this incase it should ever happen again, is the key lock a purely mechanical connection to the locking mechanism, or does it operate an electrical contract that then operates the central locking?
Just like to know what I'm going to be dealing with before I start tearing things apart. It's strange that it's exactly the same both sides.
Should be mechanical connection. There are plastic link connections that can get worn. Try sprizting a little lube, preferably a teflon drying type spray but wd40 will do in a pinch, in the lock and see if it frees up. If it does and you use wd40 then get a product called hudini lock spray or a teflon type spray that dries and does not leave residue like wd40.
Should be mechanical connection. There are plastic link connections that can get worn. Try sprizting a little lube, preferably a teflon drying type spray but wd40 will do in a pinch, in the lock and see if it frees up. If it does and you use wd40 then get a product called hudini lock spray or a teflon type spray that dries and does not leave residue like wd40.
I've got some teflon dry lube, I'll give that a go, they are just one of those things that gets totally neglected (like the e brake on an auto!). Thanks
I've got some teflon dry lube, I'll give that a go, they are just one of those things that gets totally neglected (like the e brake on an auto!). Thanks
Rob, I had a similar situation a couple of years ago and both of the door locks seemed to be frozen and unable to turn. I managed to get the passenger side to turn by applying more force than I was comfortable with.
When we got home, I used a teflon dry lube for motorcycle chains that I have left over from my riding days into the key hole. The locks have been good since then. As a matter of fact, just Wednesday when I was installing the GPR manual switch, I checked the operation of the locks via the key and they were both still good to go.
I'll be giving it a go tomorrow, it's nearly dark here & the temperature is dropping so it can wait until then. I have 2 spare fobs which both work & as I said, I managed to get in, so that was good!
OK fellas, why Teflon lube instead of the normal stuff?
Rob, you also may consider removing the door panels to lube up all the mechanicals in there. Dad couldn’t even open his passenger door from the outside (same as an auto e-brake for a single guy). All it needed was a little lube love.
Now I’m not sure what to use though as the guys seem to have some knowledge I’m not familiar with yet. My go to lube is Sea Foam Deep Creep for this type of thing since it finds its way back into things well.
OK fellas, why Teflon lube instead of the normal stuff?
.
Mainly don't want to use a lube like wd40 that stays wet or turns gummy. Will attract dust and dirt. The wafers in an automotive lock are pushed by very light springs. Start packing stuff in the lock and the springs can't overcome the friction.
Lock smiths use the Hudini spray listed above on vehicles, residential and commercial door locks etc.
I just suggest teflon because most of us have it or can use it on other items we don't want to use wd40 on.
If that seafoam lube is one that dries after application then it will work as well.
Also, I have the DuPont teflon spray left over because I bought several cans of it years ago on sale. It was like 50% off if bought in the quantity I did.
In a pinch, you can use a lighter to heat the key before putting in the lock.
It's not the lock that's the problem, it turns one way (lock) freely, just a lot of resistance going the other way & you can see the internal lock button rising, it just doesn't travel far enough to easily unlock the door, I'll investigate further tomorrow & report back.
It's still below freezing outside, half an hour & I have no feeling in my fingers. So I removed the door panel & peeled back the membrane, it doesn't give me a great view of what's going on but it helps, I shot some PB blaser at every moving part I could & observed the movements of what I can see. Everything is free & moves but when I try to unlock with the key, the rod from the key lock to the latch mechanism has reached it's extent of travel before the locking button has come up fully.
If I try to lift the button at the same time, it won't lift until I return the key to centre. It's as if there's some kind of interlock situation, I really need to remove everything from the door & lay it out on the bench to see what is wrong. I've searched here & the Internet in general & all lock problems are unlike mine.....although I've never used the key locks before, I have a funny feeling that they've always been like this, maybe a Friday afternoon build!
I have discovered that if I apply pressure in the unlock direction whilst pulling on the external handle, it will open the door, so at least I can get in, in an emergency situation.
Yes, that part is not the problem, it's exactly the same on both doors, the key turns freely in both directions, with more resistance in the unlock direction. I'm going to have a good look through the FSM & see if there's a good schematic of all the linkages.
Door panel is super easy to get off. Then you can see all the mechanisms.
Remove small trim on front of window, pulls off.
Power Window controller pops up, disconnect wires.
I think there is a screw to remove behind this window controller... One or two somewhere up top anyhow.
Remove Light cover at bottom of door. One side will pop out with a small screw driver and the part will tilt out.
Remove screw behind light cover.
Remove the bulb holder from the panel.
Pick the door panel straight up.
