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I believe the plastic / nylon rod end connectors are threaded on. maybe threaded on too far or not enough?
That is a possibility, I've been looking through the FSM but the pictures aren't really clear enough to see a potential problem. I'm done with it for now, it can wait until the temperature rises........I have a nice workshop with heat but I can't get the truck in without moving too much stuff outside.
That is a possibility, I've been looking through the FSM but the pictures aren't really clear enough to see a potential problem. I'm done with it for now, it can wait until the temperature rises........I have a nice workshop with heat but I can't get the truck in without moving too much stuff outside.
So like most of us you have a nice storage area and work on the vehicles outside
So like most of us you have a nice storage area and work on the vehicles outside
Isn't that how it works? Do you know another way? Is there another way?
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Door panel is super easy to get off. Then you can see all the mechanisms.
Remove small trim on front of window, pulls off.
Power Window controller pops up, disconnect wires.
I think there is a screw to remove behind this window controller... One or two somewhere up top anyhow.
Remove Light cover at bottom of door. One side will pop out with a small screw driver and the part will tilt out.
Remove screw behind light cover.
Remove the bulb holder from the panel.
Pick the door panel straight up.
I removed the door panel to observe everything but nothing is obviously wrong, I will get to the bottom of it, but not for now.
So, sounds like you lubed the cylinder and that didn't help, If you have a spare key try that.. maybe your everyday key is starting to get worn. Just throwing that out there.
So, sounds like you lubed the cylinder and that didn't help, If you have a spare key try that.. maybe your everyday key is starting to get worn. Just throwing that out there.
Thanks for the input, I have 3 keys in total, one original & two spares that were cut from the code, they all perform the same way.
I was going to take similar pictures myself as I went through the first steps, but not being able to feel my fingers, I just cracked on but decided against removing the lock assembly, partly because of the cold & partly because I need fully functioning doors in order to get to work next week & as you said 20 year old plastic clips in 20° temperatures is a recipe for disaster.....
Isn't that how it works? Do you know another way? Is there another way?
I removed the door panel to observe everything but nothing is obviously wrong, I will get to the bottom of it, but not for now.
Whoa, you guys have storage, AND heat?!
I can relate to this. Had the fob for the immobilizer than was in my truck when I got it split in half and disintegrate in my hand while walking across the street to the house one day, and then a few months later my only fob I had left of the pair disappeared outta my lunch kit into my foreman’s work truck that I was driving while he was away. Had to rewire the ignition in his culdesac to get my truck home!
You’ll have to give it a look over when you get the chance. It really sounds like your locks are just a little sticky. I’ve had similar in a number of vehicles and lubrication fixed it in a hurry. Things happen though. You’ll see when you pop the panel, if that’s the case. There’s some room for adjustment but you’ll probably find you can’t wander too far from the factory setting before things go all wonky.
Been near -30°C here for a week, and -10°C before that, so needless to say my wiring projects have been put off for a bit. Especially since I’ve been 5 weeks without running water, other than the coupe of days I had last week after I fixed it... before it promptly froze up again without a chance for me to get my overflow running to prevent that. Mother Nature causes all kinds of challenges for all of us in a number of ways.
Also, about the Houdini stuff... from their spiel: “NON TEFLON”... but, also them: “dry PTFE formula”. So, what’s PTFE, then, boys?
I prefer spray graphite for my locks and several other items. Like the teflon it has a carrier that evaporates that leaves a nice graphite coating which is excellent for locks.
I'm looking for completely different locks. Circular coke machine keys. Restricted Medeco keys. Anything different, and totally unexpected (to the would be thief) but still mechanical (not reliant on electricity).
I've already got the all metal handles and buckets, Jimmi Jammers, and custom fabricated reinforcement rings made out of stainless steel inside the doors, surrounding the handle ports.
Now I'm looking for an entirely different keyed lock design, and am surprised not to find a commercially available solution yet. Absent of any proven solution, I might have to cobble something together of my own, but I'm dead set on dispensing with the original Ford key lock system.
I'm looking for completely different locks. Circular coke machine keys. Restricted Medeco keys. Anything different, and totally unexpected (to the would be thief) but still mechanical (not reliant on electricity).
I've already got the all metal handles and buckets, Jimmi Jammers, and custom fabricated reinforcement rings made out of stainless steel inside the doors, surrounding the handle ports.
Now I'm looking for an entirely different keyed lock design, and am surprised not to find a commercially available solution yet. Absent of any proven solution, I might have to cobble something together of my own, but I'm dead set on dispensing with the original Ford key lock system.
Can’t argue with ya there on that one, amigo!
It’s no surprise that the rear door handle swap and a few things of that ilk are common. I had even considered making a template and then finding someone to fab me up a steel clamshell with a lock that would go around the whole column and stop them from being able to touch the ignition or shifter. Someone with some basic fabricating skills could easily make up something more than adequate. I just never had the opportunity or space to learn. I really feel like that one would make it damn theft proof in my part of the world, since we don’t have any cross border narco banditos or anything who do it on an industrial scale. Mostly just walking crime spree lowlifes and addicts, sometimes both. Kids up to no good, too.
I fixed all of that though by moving to a place where I leave the house unlocked, and keys in the ignition of the truck and ATV and anything else!
I'm looking for completely different locks. Circular coke machine keys. Restricted Medeco keys. Anything different, and totally unexpected (to the would be thief) but still mechanical (not reliant on electricity).
Try these guys. I have purchased high-security plug locks from them before. https://www.laigroup.com/
They are hardened and the mechanisms they were installed in were installed in were destroyed before the locks were.
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