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I know there are many opinions about manual vs auto locking hubs and I'm not starting a firestorm just looking for information from folks who have replaced the OEM with Warn or other manual. My question is about the vacuum line and what to do with it. The Warn installation instruction state to check the line at the steering knuckle before and after and ensure they hold a certain vacuum but I have no idea why since the line is removed and capped. Also it specifically says to check the knuckle end and not the lines coming from the actuator.
Why would it matter if the knuckle didn't hold vacuum?
VR,
David
2020 CCSB, 6.7 FX4
Carli Back Country 2.5
Ranch Hand Bumpers
SPE hot/cold side pipes
H&S fuel filter
Amsoil bypass oil filter
Diamondback bed cover
if the seal has been compromised bad enough it can let water and dirt in there, BUT I have replace a few high mile hubs with manuals with no issues. Including my own truck. If I have the axle apart for u joint or ball joint replacement I always put a new seal assembly in. I would always unhook the vacuum solenoid also. Cj
FWIW...I changed out my OEM for WARN manual locking hubs on my last truck. I plugged the factory hoses and that was it. I suppose the concept is this; the factory system is under vacuum during normal operation. If you leave the tubing open, you have the potential to contaminate the vacuum system if you leave it open and uncapped. Diesels vs gas are different functions inherently, but concept of contamination is the same.
Regardless, where I live, there is no doubt that WARN manual hubs are the way to go when the factory ones fail. Notice I said WHEN. Not IF. Around here, its only a matter of time before the factory hubs fail.
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