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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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riley42204
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Warn Hubs

I ordered some warn premium manual hubs for my 02 4x4 SC LB and am unsure about the vacuum lines. Do I leave them connected or disconnect them? And what is the procedure for disconnecting them/plugging them up. Amazon.com has them on sell for 168.00 free shipping. Thanks
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Gents, correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe you leave the vac. lines disconnected because the Warn hubs are manual. The vacuum lines become inoperable so they are plugged and tucked away. Strokin_it 7.3, you just did this, didn't you? <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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Mine are cut off and plugged. If you do not plug them and you have a vacuum leak at the hubs then the vac pump will continue to run. Yes the Warn's are manual, no vacuum needed. The directions that came with mine were very easy to follow.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 11:51 PM
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were the directions specific to the truck, or just general install instructions? where did you cut the lines at, and what did you plug them with. Thanks
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 08:25 AM
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i have them yes. i havent needed 4wd recently or since i have put them on, but i am going to plug them before winter comes and i need it alot. what all did you use to plug the lines? as long as i have the lines connected, it wont leak right? i just plan to leave them connected if it wont hurt it right? as long as it engages the transfer case?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 09:17 AM
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I personally cut mine right where the line went by the shock(next to the brake line) then put in a 3/16 trim head screw and then a rubber cap over that. I went on the advice from the local Les Schwab tire and a friend at the dealership and they both recommended cuting and plugging the lines. I suppose if you did not have any vacuum leaks at the hub (I did) then maybe you would not need to but I would rather have them cut off and plugged so I never have to worry about it. I will never ever switch back to the old stocker hubs so it isn't a concern to have them used again. The instructions where for Chevy and for Ford and they where pretty specific. Have you taken the old hubs off yet? Once those are out of the way it is pretty simple from there. If you have not, simply pull the center cap from the rim, pull the big snap ring around the stock hub and lightly tap with a rubber mallet. Mine fell right off.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 12:46 PM
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Thanks for the replies, sounds pretty simple. I'll take Powerstrokedlariat's advice and cut and plug them by the shock. My stock hubs cannot even be turned with a pair of pliars, they are stuck in the auto position.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 07:51 PM
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thats what happened to mine, along with a clunking sound when turning. I really like the Warns alot. Very easy to turn, like butter......
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 10:30 PM
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I was wondering, if there is a leak at the hub and you go get warn hubs and plug the vacuum line, could water get in through were the vacumm leak is and eventually cause a problem for the manual hub? The reason I ask is I've read about some having a leak at the "hub seal" not just at the vacumm line some where.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2005 | 11:41 PM
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I will have to get back to you on that one. If I remember right once you get rid of the Ford hubs you eliminate any chance of that. The Warn's seal up nice and tight to the hub. I will need to double check that though--
 
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 12:39 AM
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Thanks, I just don't know where the "hub seal" is at, so I had to ask. For some reason I was thinking it is on the back (same side as where the vacuum line connects).
 
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by riley42204
Thanks for the replies, sounds pretty simple. I'll take Powerstrokedlariat's advice and cut and plug them by the shock. My stock hubs cannot even be turned with a pair of pliars, they are stuck in the auto position.
thats why i upgraded you couldnt move the ****, and it was stuck somewhere between auto and free.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 11:03 PM
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I put a set of Warn's on my rig a few weeks ago. Very easy to install. Took me 20mins to do both. Remove the outer ring clamp. Pull on the stock hub to get it out. Slide your new hub in(put just a touch of grease...hubs come with just the right amount of grease on them...don't want to pack in there to much). Take the warn metal o-ring and make sure to to bend the tip(see instructions). If you pull it apart a little and slide it in clockwise you will be able to kind of screw the rest of it in there...Slap your cap on. screw your allen screws in and your done.

Water will get in the holes and cause problems. No way it won't take water on. To big of a hole that goes directly down into your hub... My factory hoses were shot. I went to Napa and purchased a piece of silicon hose...all they had was orange so thats what I got...may have black if ask. The silicon will last much longer than the rubber...less worries later. I then pluged it up just like the factory hose was and put tie wraps on both ends. I cut it a couple of inches above the little clamp that holds the brake line and hose back from getting in the tire. I bought a 1/4" x 2" threaded screw..(threaded on both end...no head...got it at local hardware store)...Put me a little silicon and each end. Slid the hose on both sides and tie wrapped it up. No leaks and no worries about the water...Other ways to do it but that was my process. If you can find a brass fitting that will go in the axle that would work to. Then plug up vacum hose where it comes out in fender well.

Here is a link that I found somewhere on this site that gave pic by pic directions on how to replace hubs.

http://community.webshots.com/album/85609276aVntVC

Hope this helps.
Rob
 
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