I have a 1999 F150 (4.6, not that it matters for this) Lariat and ever since i replaced the drivers window regulator and motor the auto down button doesn't work correctly. before the motor died everything, including the auto down window, worked fine. When I "double/Hard" press (not sure the word to use) the window switch to do auto down it'll go an inch or so then stop, press it again and it'll go another inch or so and stop again, If I "single/Soft" press the button it goes all the way down no hickups and up works fine too.

Main question is how does the auto down window work, does it go by resistance so I have to lube the track or something (If so where/What)? or is it something else? If anyone can offer any tips I can try when I get a chance I'd really appreciate it. I also bought a new window switch off ebay (Motocraft, not dorman or any others) and tested it didn't change, same issues, so I have a brand new switch for a backup now.

 

There is a "one touch down" relay in the fuse box, perhaps it's no good.

 

The feature works by the GEM module energizing the OTD relay which drives the motor in the "down" direction. Power to the motor is run through a current shunt, the voltage across which will be proportional to the current drawn by the motor. This voltage is monitored by circuitry in the GEM module that will, if the voltage across the shunt exceeds a preset limit, de-energize the OTD relay removing power from the motor.

Your replacement motor/regulator is probably drawing too much current (for whatever reason) and the OTD circuitry is interpreting that as a motor stall and turning off the drive power, just like it's supposed to do at the end of the window's regular travel.

Mechanical binding of the window would certainly cause this symptom. The OTD relay is unlikely to be a cause of the issue.

 

yeah, tried replacing the relay and that didn't fix it, I didn't think It would, but I tried. Is there any special "Grease" i should use for the window tracks? or just hose it down with some WD-40? or would it be something else?

 

Don't know if you had removed the rear channel guide to do your repairs but I had a drivers window that would slow up in the middle of travel. I removed the door panel and found the rear window guide channel was installed incorrectly which caused the binding. The top of the channel has a permanent clip that slides into the upper channel for alignment. It was miss-installed by someone as the door panel had signs of being removed before. To fix, with the window up, I unfastened the bottom bolt holding the rear channel in and re-positioned the top guide clip and refastened the bolt.

 

When necessary I use a spray can of silicone. Once it dries it doesn't have that greasy feel to it.

 

I’m having the exact same problem. I replaced my driver side window motor and regulator and now the auto down function doesn’t work properly. It travels a short distance and then stops several times. I’ve tried resetting by holding the button down 3 seconds but nothing changes. I replaced the relay and that did nothing. I’ve lubricated the tracks and the window is not binding. Did you ever figure out the fix to this issue?

 

In my experience the only replacement regulators that WILL work with auto down for 97-03 trucks are the Ford ones. All the aftermarket ones I’ve used caused the auto down to be inoperable.

Not the case on 04-08s though as I used to put Dorman in those because at the time they were a lifetime warranty part and the Ford part had yet to be revised. So at least when it failed again the part was free. They worked just fine with auto down.

 

on topic purpose but off topic question.
i have what i had thought was a 98 but the extra 20amp brake/trailer fuse under the hood makes me think it’s a 97.
Anyway, Rear Driver side Turnsignal and brake light were out but running light still works.
replaced bulb and then traced all wires and all seems well.
days prior to the light going out,no that i think about it,the power lock stopped working properly.
i replaced the Blue relay and the relay next to it up under the right of steeringwheel in cab and then have replaced relays in fuse box under dash too.
my windows work but I’m getting a code saying LEFT FRONT POWER WINDOW RELAY CIRCUIT FAILURE. Even tho the windows work,would this be causing the (driver side only ) turn signal and brake light issue?

but i also get a code ACCESSORY DELAY RELAY CIRCUT FAILURE.

have replaced that relay aswell.

the turn signal flasher on dash stays solid But if i remove that 20amp Fuse in the mini box under hood in engine compartment,then the dash blinker will flash but still won’t be working on Back Driver Side.

any Thoughts? And sorry if i didn’t pose question/issue in correct spot,i Just now made the account after having seen some great answers over the past month on here.

 

This is the window channel lube
It's a thick liquid silicone grease
Makes the windows work like a greased pig
It's part of a 30k service that most people do not do correctly

 

You had me at "double hard press"
It is "One Touch Down" (one light press is all that is needed)