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Have you measured this, or just done a thought experiment? A thought experiment is where you just think through what will happen without testing it. When I was an automatic transmission cooling engineer I tested this extensively. THE RADIATOR *COOLER* NEVER WARMS THE ATF. The colder the ambient air the more the radiator *COOLER* cools the ATF. It never, ever, ever warms the ATF.
The radiator *COOLER* is in the side of the radiator where the engine coolant has already been cooled. At very low temps the engine thermostat only opens for a very short time. Hot coolant is sent to the radiator in spurts. The coolant spends a lot of time sitting in the radiator where it is cooled to near ambient temperatures. Then this near ambient coolant hits the trans cooler. How can coolant at or below 0°F heat the ATF? It can't happen.
Wrong. This shows a lack of understanding how the ATF is cooled. See above.
This is just plain wrong.
This is interesting. I am glad that someone that has in-depth experience is joining in. I stand corrected as well.
The only thing I would want to know is if there is a possibility for the ATF to get too cold? Judging by what you said that does not seem to be possible.
Applying that to the original question, is there anything speaking against running an external cooler, without tieing it into the radiator?
Have you measured this, or just done a thought experiment? A thought experiment is where you just think through what will happen without testing it. When I was an automatic transmission cooling engineer I tested this extensively. THE RADIATOR *COOLER* NEVER WARMS THE ATF. The colder the ambient air the more the radiator *COOLER* cools the ATF. It never, ever, ever warms the ATF. The radiator *COOLER* is in the side of the radiator where the engine coolant has already been cooled. At very low temps the engine thermostat only opens for a very short time. Hot coolant is sent to the radiator in spurts. The coolant spends a lot of time sitting in the radiator where it is cooled to near ambient temperatures. Then this near ambient coolant hits the trans cooler. How can coolant at or below 0°F heat the ATF? It can't happen.
So much good feedback on this post.
So back to my original question - Can I bypass the radiator cooler and just use the auxiliary cooler mounted in front of the radiator? I am new to this truck and know nothing of its past. The odo shows 92K and I am pretty sure that is true miles and not rolled over. The trans fluid that came out did not have any off smell to it. While it is a 40 yo rad I would rather not replace it just to replace it. If the rad develops a leak I would rather is leaked onto the ground vs into a trans line. If I need to continue to run trans through it I will but if it isn't necessary I say why risk it.
This is interesting. I am glad that someone that has in-depth experience is joining in. I stand corrected as well.
The only thing I would want to know is if there is a possibility for the ATF to get too cold? Judging by what you said that does not seem to be possible.
Yes, that can happen. Later model transmissions have a thermostat that bypasses the coolers when the trans is cold. Ford's first trans with a thermostat was the 5R110W. It only sent 10% of the normal flow to the coolers until the trans was warmer than 165°F.
Before I left Ford we were talking about using hot engine coolant from the heater lines to heat the trans when cold. I left before we started testing this theory, and I haven't checked to see if they ever implemented this.
Originally Posted by BlueWhiteFord
Applying that to the original question, is there anything speaking against running an external cooler, without tieing it into the radiator?
Yes, there is. It's insufficient cooling. The radiator cooler does the majority of the heat extraction. Without this cooler, you lose a lot of cooling capacity. If you don't work the truck hard you will probably not have a problem. If you are running near its limits you will probably overheat the trans without the radiator cooler.
Originally Posted by rd65
So back to my original question - Can I bypass the radiator cooler and just use the auxiliary cooler mounted in front of the radiator?
The 1980-up transmissions used Dexron type fluid. Does it say anything stamped on the end of the dipstick? Sometimes they stamp the type of fluid it takes on it somewhere.
The 1980-up transmissions used Dexron type fluid. Does it say anything stamped on the end of the dipstick? Sometimes they stamp the type of fluid it takes on it somewhere.
Yes, it has something on it but the stick is rusty in that area so I will need to do a little clean up to read it. Looks like a Ford part number.
Comes up as Dex/Merc but that doesnt mean they F might not be better right?
Do you have some logic behind that statement? I have heard you can swap fluids if you want the tranny to shift more firm, but I have forgotten which way you swap. You do not want to swap the wrong way or it will make the tranny slip. I would just stick with the recommended fluid.
Do you have some logic behind that statement? I have heard you can swap fluids if you want the tranny to shift more firm, but I have forgotten which way you swap. You do not want to swap the wrong way or it will make the tranny slip. I would just stick with the recommended fluid.
Just different people saying different things when I googled the number on the dipstick. I am fine with stock fluid, just wanting to be sure that was the best option since it was back when the change was first made. Look how well they did with emission controls back then. Everything was new and not necessarily better.
I'm sure you know which fluid is better more than Ford would know. I'm sure you have built many more transmissions than Ford could possibly have made.
Geez Mark, calm down. I didnt say I know anything. That is why I am asking. Maybe Ford rushed into something, maybe the old fluid worked better, things happen. No one is attacking anyone that I can see. I was hoping someone that is more of an expert would weigh in vs others that have posted on other sites when I googled the part number on the dipstick. Other things I have read lead me to think that maybe, just maybe the older Type F was a better way to go.
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