I’m pretty sure that this subject has been touched on a few times, but I haven’t found any solid evidence on this one. Can I relocate the fuel filter somewhere along the frame and use the factory housing? If so where about son the frame can it be mounted. If can’t, where’s a good spot to mount it?

 

since the OEM filter is between the Lift Pump and the IP and has a return for self bleeding it is Best left where it is

you would be better off adding an additional Ratcor instead of relocating the OEM.

 

Most people don't relocate it just for the sake of doing so, they ditch it for a better filter head and have to relocate that because there isn't any room in the engine bay for it.

 

good morning all.

the final filter on diesels should be connected to the injection pump with a solid line, meaning a steel or solid metal line. this rule is violated frequently with no penalty, but the situation is not ideal.
a 3420 napa filter which is 4 micron absolute rated, might well fit the truck filter head. its a 7/8" thread, it does fit the van. a water filter, is 3405 and mounted down low on frame using a common1"-14 filter head is ideal, and ideally located at the lowest point in the system, and its huge with 14 micron nominal with sealing drain plug. this is the very best of all combinations.

i just installed a used bosch dual head filter housing on an 85. This will fit in factory location with a fabbed steel plate to hold it in position where the old filter head hung. with both filters in plain view, they are easily accessible. the separator hangs out over the valve cover so its easy to place a cup under it to catch the contents. filter is a 533945 wix with 5 micron nominal. the separator number escapes my memory just now. (napa 3472)
the housing is banjo so will require adapting.
what im trying to get across is this; there are a dozen ways to filter this fuel but just one way to do it rightly, that way is a solid line between final filter and injection pump.

 

Why should the final line be a solid metal line?

Hobo

 

My guess is if a rubber fuel line is use. There could be the possibility
over time, the rubber could deteriorate and bits could get in the pump
and injectors....Just a guess..

I have a 84 John Deere 950. When I got it, I went through the whole
system replacing fluids and filters etc... In the transmission case is
a fine mesh stainless filter. It filters the hyd oil for the whole system.
When I pulled it out it had this black rubbery wormy looking stuff.
It is rubber bits from all the hoses deteriorating from the inside.

Of course these are all original hose by the looks of them.
A rubber hose from filter to IP on our IDI`s probably would not be
on that long to have that happen.

I do have a rubber hose going to my IP.

Just my uneducated guess.


Charlie

 

Luckily there is a screen on the inlet side of the pump, but it's not easily accessible to clean and I agree the detoriating rubber is a very good point or concern.

Now if the right hose was used it shouldn't be an issue. Diesel eats rubber but not synthetic rubber iirc

I think the kits sold by r&d and classic diesel use push lok fittings with some sort of platic line? Or maybe a nylon line could be used with those fittings.

 

I figured I’d ask about it, as I am looking for ways to minimize air intrusion in the fuel system. I also noticed that I’m going through fuel filters left and right, they only last about 2-3K before my truck starts acting like it’s starving for fuel. Would a edelbrock street performance inline fuel filter work on a IDI? I noticed they have a reusable filter in them, and didn’t know if it would help or not

 

__________________
Where is the debris that plugs the filter coming from ?

Hobo

 

I am thinking it’s coming from the fuel tanks, I know when I bought the truck it had(and still does) have the issue of dying at a 1/4 of a tank on both tanks, and the truck sat for a little bit before I got ahold of it.

 

hey guys, the principle explanation is the chance for contamination. cavitation and vaporlock.
there is less of a chance at vapor lock due to the limited ability of the solid line to collapse and cause a vacuum which of course turns your fuel to vapor. the cavitation that will result from a partial blockage and heating of the fuel hammers the injection pump just like the blocks on a 7.3, or 6.9 for that matter.

the solid line helps to prevent this. heat builds up in a rubber line or can build up. rubber lines will collapse if for example your filter plugs from a wad of debris and slows the flow of fuel. the filter and line get hot, the rubber line collapses from the pull of the pump. cavitation and vapor are the result. a final metal line will not do this but will transfer the pull of the pump directly to the surface of the filter.

I will use a low nominal micron filter. if you go this way, and its not necessary on the idi to filter below 10 micron nominal, then prepare to change filters often and regularly, sometimes right after you change one, you get bad fuel and you find yourself changing it again. headache. my common rail cummins would eat a filter every two weeks or sooner sometimes.

other reason for a hard line between the final filter and the pump are algae, or deterioration of fuel line. the newer teflon lined flexible hose is better and resists the new chemistry of diesel, but is not diesel proof. back in the bad old days before ulsd, the diesels used for logging would jam filters, sometimes daily, 'cause the new diesel ate the lines from the inside out, and passed that gooey rubber right into the filter and then into the pumps.

i use a 14 micron nominal separator, and a 5 nominal final filter. just because i can, and its fun to get **** about things that are cheap, provide a service, and make a person feel good about their efforts.
no to an inline filter not rated for diesel.
plugging filters that fast means algae. there is an additive available at marine stores. drop your tanks get them spic n span clean reinstall with additive. change rubber hose where applicable as you may be getting decomposition...

And a little lecture from an old guy who knows better: when worrying yourself to death about filtering your fuel ,oil, coolant or whatever, then going out and putting junk in your own gut...take as good a care of yourself as you care for your rigs. k?
peace.

 

and a final note
it never hurts to get one of those HFT magnetic nut and bolt dishes, strip the magnet off and affix it to the bottom of your filter, or the side or whatever.

 

Dying at 1/4 tank? Then your Shower Heads have reached the end of their
useful life and fallen off the pick up tube. Are in the bottom of the tank rolling
around.
Drop the tanks, pull the bed up to you, and replace them. New one`s will
probably last as long as you own the truck.
The site I bought mine from sells the sending units also, and the shower
heads were $21 ea. Might have been Trex Auto or something like that.
I`ll look it up.

Found it:
https://www.gastankdepot.com/ford-tr...ing-units.html


Charlie

 

yeah what Sdiesel said...

I often post this as a General Guideline

 

So, it would be better to just add another diesel rated fuel filter and just keep running the factory setup by the engine bay v.s. What I wanted to do? I’m gonna do some more research on fuel filters now lol