So, I did the hydroboost swap about 2 years ago. I have a Saginaw p/s pump, all high pressure lines, braided, to hb unit, and to the Redhead steering box unit. I was doing a U turn, working brakes and steering, and heard a Pop. Didn't pay much attention. I got about 60 yards to parking spot, and as I went to pull over, I had no power steering, nor power brakes. When I opened the hood I had fluid covering the c.member under the oil pan, puddle on the ground, fluid on frame in front of steering box. I haven't gotten under the truck yet, but from above I can't see/find where the fluid was coming from. The lines look good. Can a steering box seal/gasket blow??

 

Based on the popping noise, it sounds like something under pressure. I would check your pressure lines and the canister on the side of the hydroboost first. Of all of the times that I have seen hydraulics spontaneously and spectacularly fail, it has been a pressure line, not seals or gaskets.

 

check the sector shaft seal

 

In one of the hydroboost install threads I read prior to the install, the guy mentioned to install a pressure reducing valve on the line to the steering box. He said that the older boxes couldn't take the pressure that a more modern hb operates with. I still haven't determined where it failed, but was wondering if anyone has heard about or used a pressure reduction valve.

Today I'll put some fluid in it and start the engine. That should show me where the leak is. If a seal in the box is blown, I guess I'll be rebuilding my redhead box, while adding one of these https://www.heidts.com/part/adjustab...-valve-ps-101/ to the pressure line to the steering box.

 

Really easy to adjust pressure with Saginaw. Find the leak and fix,check pressure,adjust with this....
Borgeson Universal Company :: Pumps, Brackets, Hoses & Adapters :: GM P/S Pump Pressure Reducing Shim Kit :: GM P/S Pump Pressure Valve Shim Kit

 

Headloct: Thanks for the link and the info. I was thinking to have a reduction in pressure on the line going to the steering box. That way the brakes get full pressure, and the psi is reduced for the steering to the level (volume) of the oem system. I posted a link in a previous post.

I'm sort of in the middle of moving, so it's difficult to pull away to the truck. But I am going to have it towed to my work garage today so I can determine where it is leaking from. That will of course determine how I proceed. I went back and checked my Summit receipts, and as I suspected, I chose the best high pressure line to make the hoses. I almost hope that it is a hose and not the steering box unit because of the amount of work involved in the repair if it is the box unit.

 

I'm interested to know what you find out as I have the same setup in my dent and recently upped the PS Pump from 1100 PSI to 1400 PSI to fix a noise/vibration issue when at idle.

 

The wife let me cut loose for a few today. Man, I found my aeroquip expensive braided hose popped. But it was my fault. It was crossing the hard tube fuel line to the pump, laying directly across it. It popped right where it was touching. Vibration must have worn a hole in it.

I was driving up a residential street when it failed. I fought the steering and brakes to pull over and park. I want to say to others with the h.b. set-up: If you feel the p.steering fail, get off the road. I think I had three brake applications before I was able to shut it down. The brakes were there, but full manual, and that caused me to panic, thinking that I was going to lose them altogether. That won't happen, but suddenly having full manual steering and brakes is a surprise that'll jolt you to full attention.

The failure made me search for supply lines that were touching/rubbing against other things, and slip strips of full line over the abrasive area, with the fuel line cut lengthwise.
Thanks for the support and info, guys. I guess I don't need to reduce the pressure to the steering box. I'm so happy it was not the steering box that blew a gasket. Phew.

 

Glad to hear it was a hose! thanks for the update.

 

I’m pretty sure your gonna want to stay with the high pressure valve. If you do change it and you feel the steering isn’t as responsive/brakes etc...you need the high pressure valve.

I’ve had my set up in now for almost a year....couldn’t be happier!

I bought my complete kit thru Wild Horses 4x4 and did a complete write up on the install.

 

When I bought the hose to make the hoses I bought the best I could, and that was aeroquip. I have to say that braided high pressure hose is not as durable as I thought. Or, I guess I should say that I had no idea that vibration could wear it through in ... what? seven months? But, live and learn. Luckily I had extra hose left over. I'm a firm believer in protecting my hoses now! ha ha.

I like the way the steering feels now. Back when I had a Ford pump on it with the HB and in parking lot situations the p. steering would disappear. Not any more. I didn't use a kit. I used a pump from a 76 LTD with a 460, the bracket from a Ford van, the HB and master from a SuperDuty, and made it all work. I really enjoyed getting rid of the plastic bushings in the pedal assembly and installing bearings there, bearings on the clutch and brake rods to pedal connection too.

 

I experienced something that I hadn't come across before. I want to post it so others might learn.
When I had the hoses back on and ready to run, I filled the p/s fluid and started the engine. The pump whined terrible. I touched the pump and it was hot. I loosened the belt adjustment, checked everything, tightened and started again. It whined again. I had the front wheels off the ground, so I started turning the steering wheel to pump air out of the system. It continued to whine, but as soon as I pumped the brake pedal, the whine disappeared and all was good. I kept turning the wheels and pumping the brakes for about 5 minutes to bleed the system. Now it is good.

 

That’s bleeding the system. I did that to mine prior to start up. Turned they wheels back and forth till the air bubbles stopped. Then started the truck. Pulled it out of the garage and as soon as I turned the wheels....a little whine from the pump and the steering was jerky. Back in the garage and bled the system again. Mine was good to go after that.

 

Usually, it's whatever the braided hose is rubbing against that gets damaged, not the hose itself. The fuel return line on my Dodge/Cummins (12 valve) truck split and was spewing fuel. I replaced it with a braided steel hose, but to protect other metal and rubber lines nearby, I covered the braided steel hose with heat-shrink tubing.

 

It was rubbing on the main fuel line, hard line. I too was surprised that the braided wore though. I wondered if there had been a dissimilar metal reaction that occurred. I like your idea of the heat shrink. I took a rubber fuel line and split it lengthwise and slipped it over the braided. With the shrink wrap or rubber fuel line you can see if something is chaffing before you're spewing fluid in the road.