Over the last year or so it seems like the air cleaner on my 89 7.3L idi has gotten harder and harder to remove or install. It seems like the rubber material on the engine compartment back firewall has shifted, or is fatter than it used to be. Re-installing is especially annoying. The top back corner of the AC housing just feels like it is running into something solid and immovable.

Anybody else have this problem? Suggestions for what to do to fix it?

 

Yeah I'm getting OLD and I use a short step ladder to gain access nowadays

 

i don't have that problem, the 6637 filter is rite next to the driver side fender where i can reach it from the ground.

 

Doubtful the firewall is moving forward..... Perhaps the engine is moving backwards. Check your motor mounts.

Hobo

 

Bet your cab is almost sitting on the frame. I had an '87 years ago that was used by Boston dpw. You want to talk about rot? I used the truck to plow, so I took 2x6 pressure treated wood and jammed it between the cab and frame all around. Worked out fine and I was able to open my air cleaner.

 

I fear you are on to something here. A year or so ago I happened to peek under the carpet on the passenger side under the rear seat (I have an extended cab). I said, "I don't wanna know," and pulled the carpet back over it.

I think a couple years before that I did do some patching and cobbling of the floor on the driver's side. Treated wood was involved, as were bolts, screws, pop rivets, old license plates, busted windmill blades, and lots of silicone caulk.

Anyway, today I was studying the rubber lining on the back firewall. Seems a bit loose and saggy. I thought about drilling several holes and screwing the rubber to the metal behind it. But I chickened out, because I don't know what's behind there and I don't wanna put a screw into an electric wire or a heater hose.

Somehow I managed to wiggle the air cleaner back in place, this time.

I had taken it off because I thought I was going to have to replace the glow plug controller. I was irked because that's a job I just did three months ago. The truck started great for a few weeks, but then all of a sudden the WTS light would only stay on about 2 seconds, and I would have to use ether to get it to start.

I figured I might as well check the GPs while I was in there. I discovered there was one dead GP, and two others that the wires had come off! I replaced the bad GP, hooked up the other ones, and voila! Ol' Teddy fired right off without the spray can. No need to replace the controller.

 

You can make your own body bushings with any old conveyor or baler belt, also let's you stack as many as you want to get the desired height.

I haven't ever seen any of those modern poly urethane bushings last...they all crumble apart like an old pencil eraser.

Just incase you ever have to redo them, it may save you some dough and outlast the rest of the truck.

 

A good trick to know. But thirty years worth of road salt probably means the actual floor of the cab is rotted out, not just the bushings.

 

it is what it is

 

Time to improvise. Let's see what kind of Rube Goldberg setup you can whip up. Never know, you might be helping someone here out!
edit- as long as it's safe. lol.