Thought I'd look up some install instructions and have some questions:

1. Should I pour fluid into the torque converter first? Some came out of it during removal, maybe a half quart. If so, how do I know how much/when to stop?

2. I read that there's a "readaption process" that has to be performed by the dealer or using a special device before you can do the manual training process of running through the shift range and driving it slowly until it smooths out. Is that right?

3. That same document said the trans cooler and lines need to be cleaned, and the only way to is with a hot flush machine. Does this refer to the cooler built into the bottom of the radiator? I know my Fseries had those, but maybe these Eseries are different. I seem to recall another small radiator-style cooler in front of the AC condenser, maybe that's it?

 

Ok, I've read that the trucks have two coolers, the one in the radiator and an aux cooler. It's recommended to replace the aux cooler, and to flush/backflush the in-tank cooler and lines. i see DIY products, are those going to be sufficient, or do I need to tow the truck to a dealer to have them use the hot machine, which they prolly don't have.

 

There is no need to pour fluid in the torque converter.

No, that is not right. There is no dealer process that needs or can be done.

Some people (including me) don't believe that you can effectively flush a cooler. I recommend replacing BOTH coolers, which means a new radiator. Depending on how much risk you're willing to take on you can flush the radiator cooler. Pretty much everyone agrees you can't flush the aux cooler.

 

Thank you, Mark. I appreciate your time and knowledge. Will be buying a new aux cooler for sure. Maybe two cans of solvent on my lines and radiator cooler. Glad I don't have to take that TC back off under the truck.

 

I thought you were pulling the aux cooler off the good transmission truck for this reason when this issue was discussed before.....

A solvent that could be left behind is the last thing I would want remaining the Rad cooler.

 

I should have, Jack. At first, I was just ignorant - didn't know we had two trans coolers. Then, the old man recommended flushing the cooler the first time I phoned him, and I just figured that would solve the problem, and didn't think about it again. I'm thinking I will blow the lines out after flushing, then blow some fluid through them to get any left over solvent.

Have you ever checked out the aftermarket coolers? The nearest dealership is an hour away, but the local auto parts have universal coolers. Are they grossly inferior?

 

I can't help with that.

 

However, it would be something to get you home.

 

Right or wrong, what I do is blow the lines out with a blow gun and then I use 2 cans of cooler flush from Napa and run that through the lines. Then blow them out again and move on. Maybe I would replace the cooler and radiator if I was putting a built transmission in but I haven't worried about it on mine.

No re-learn or anything like that. Put it in and go.

 

I wasn't thinking about a specific cooler flush when I was nervous about "solvent". Thanks for mentioning that.

 

Well, Chris, I happened to do exactly what you said - air, one can going one way, air, one can going the other way, air - but I did buy a new "universal" aux cooler that I'll put on tomorrow. Looks like aluminum fins to me.

I just noticed that this bus doesn't have an external transmission filter. On my 06, and the 06 ambulance I pulled the tranny from, there is an in-line filter - looks like an Fseries filter - mounted on the drivers side of the bell housing. On this bus, nothing. The install guide warns of such and says to install one, but it doesn't look as stout as the factory set-up on my other trucks. I'm thinking of waiting on the filter until I can pull the lines off that ambulance on my way back home. Looks like they would swap right in and provide the cartridge filter. Is that crazy? Do I really need the filter right now, right after this tranny swap, cooler replace, and the double flush? Obviously seems like the factory didn't think it needs a filter at all.

The other problem: I didn't get the dipstick inlet tube all the way in the transmission casing. It easily goes in without the dipstick tube inserted, but putting it on the dipstick and then into the casing was not easy, and then it wouldn't go all the way - it's got another 1/4 inch to go. Again, an Eseries PITA. The dipstick tube attaches to a valve cover stud at the top back corner PS, which is easy enough to get to through the doghouse, but it's got a second ear attached to a back alternator bolt that is a pain to get out. With both off, I'm sure the inlet tube would go right in, and I'd prolly have enough flexibiilty on the upper end to fit those two ears. Just wondering, since there's no o-ring on that inlet tube, if it's likely to leak.

Most importantly though, does that alter the dipstick measurement? I've got to fill it up tomorrow, then top it off, and really need to know the accurate amount of fluid in the truck.

 

I had a problem with the dipstick too. A PO had used silicone instead of the correct ring and, yes, it leaked. It was not a lot, but it kept the transmission oil pan wet. I don't remember needing to top up regularly before I sorted it out, so it was a very small leak.

 

Maybe the old ring is still there and stopping it getting fully inserted.

 

No, the PO used silicone too. I wondered what that mess was. The tube goes nicely into the casing without the dipstick tube. It's only that the dipstick tube has it in a bind. Not a problem, just gotta quit being lazy and detach it up front so it can move.

Looks like I'm going to do something crazy - I broke my shift linkage/cable fitting, and it's too dang cold to mess with replacing it out here. I think I'm going to limp it home by shifting it manually at the transmission. I should only have to stop for gas once, and I can just kill the engine at the pump, then set the emergency brake and recruit a bystander to hold the break when I get ready to leave.

 

When I put the transmission in that I have now I bought an 08 pan and filter. I don't know if the e series changed pans, but in the pickups the 6.4 trucks had a deeper pan and a filter instead of screen that the 6.0 had. I did end up leaving the toilet paper roll in the filter up on the frame rail though, I think.