HVAC control unit no power

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Feb 2, 2021 | 07:42 PM

#31

donmi

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From: Hope, BC, Canada

Quote:

Originally Posted by alloro

FYI, there is no connector between those two points, but there is one splice.
When I click the location for the splice all it says is: "Location: Wiring harness - Main (14401) near T/O to, C270f"
Maybe that makes sense to you, I know it doesn't make much sense to me.

The splice is called S241 and "C270f" is a connector on the CJB, so the splice must be close to there, see the attached files.

I am still convinced, the issue is based on moisture / corrosion in the CJB, Without a load, there is power on Pin 16, with a load not, typical for a lose / corroded connection. And when I checked the CJB for blew fuses, I found quite a bit of white powder from corrosion. This car was parked over 3 years outside without any usage and British Columbia can be very wet.
I will take the CJB out on the weekend and give it a good clean.

Attached Images

fm05_webexpnav-000.pdf (158.8 KB, 35 views)

View 150-13 (Dash Panel).pdf (128.0 KB, 54 views)

Mar 25, 2021 | 10:05 PM

#32

donmi

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From: Hope, BC, Canada

Water and CJB

Ok, Guys, yes, I am still alive.... Now the weather is getting better and I took another run on my problem.
Today I took the fuse box out and took it apart. I found lots of corrosion and during removing of the connectors from the fuse box I found actually wet cables / connectors.

Can somebody tell me, where the water most likely comes in and what is the solution??
Thank you!

Mar 26, 2021 | 05:55 AM

#33

projectSHO89

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From: St Louis

All are symptoms consistent with LWS - Leaky Windshield Syndrome.

You'd probably also need to pull the kick panels and inspect the grounding connection points for corrosion, rust, and body rot.

Mar 27, 2021 | 07:38 PM

#34

donmi

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From: Hope, BC, Canada

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectSHO89

All are symptoms consistent with LWS - Leaky Windshield Syndrome.

You'd probably also need to pull the kick panels and inspect the grounding connection points for corrosion, rust, and body rot.

Ok, took the fuse box out, disassembled it, cleaned is and used dielectric grease on every contact and it is now back in.
I also covered all windshield edges until I get a new windshield.
BTW: problem with the HVAC panel is still there, so I will pull a new wire in and get the power to the panel.this way.
I also had always a parasitic draw from the battery, today I measured it, it is 0.117 Amp, I pulled every fuse and checked, no change, still 0.117 Amp.
My Navi has a third party alarm system with remote starter.
What would be a "proper" draw??

Mar 28, 2021 | 06:24 AM

#35

projectSHO89

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From: St Louis

After the thing goes to "sleep", about 35-45 minutes after any touch of anything, quiescent current draw should be under 50 mA. This is exclusive of any add-on circuitry.

Mar 28, 2021 | 01:53 PM

#36

donmi

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From: Hope, BC, Canada

I pulled already every fuse to check, no change.
Any idea , how to find out??

Mar 28, 2021 | 02:52 PM

#37

projectSHO89

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From: St Louis

Did you wait the REQUIRED time after touching ANYTHING before making your measurement?

Mar 28, 2021 | 06:46 PM

#38

donmi

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From: Hope, BC, Canada

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectSHO89

Did you wait the REQUIRED time after touching ANYTHING before making your measurement?

I waited 60 minutes, but I did a mistake, so I will do it again. Here is my way:
- After shutting the engine off, I will open the passenger door as I need access to the fuses
- close manually the door lock in the passenger door so the system thinks it is closed.
- open the hood
- remove the cable from the hood pin of the alarm
- power lock the doors with the remote
- wait 60 minutes
- wrap a blank cable around the negative pole of the battery
- connect a second blank cable to the negative cable
- connect both cables to an ampere meter
- NOW i disconnect the main negative main cable from the battery and make sure, the "homemade" shunt does not get interrupted.
- reading the meter and pull one fuse at a time and look for the difference on the meter.
- after that without "findings", disconnect the alternator and the starter and non-OEM accessories (Alarm and one audio addition)

I hope, I forgot nothing...........