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HVAC control unit no power

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Old Jan 17, 2021 | 01:59 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by alloro
Assuming it's used, I'd say it looks like the replacement panel is also defective.
But I found it interesting, that all the switches are "working" when the panel is connected to the power only, means the LED's are working and the display changes like it should.
I am coming more and more to the conclusion, there is corrosion in the CJB and cause this issue.
Will test some more and report.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 07:17 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by alloro
Try running a self test on the ETAC.
Ford EATC Self Diagnostics (idmsvcs.com)
I just noticed something, my 2004 Expedition has, of course, another HVAC control panel than the 2005 Navigator.
In the instructions it reads: "To enter the self-test, press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds."
The expedition has this dedicated FLOOR button and the self test works like a charm.
BUT the Navigator has ONE button for ALL DIRECTIONS, there is no dedicated button for the FLOOR.
Is there another test procedure for the Navigator??
 
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 05:33 AM
  #18  
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Is there another test procedure for the Navigator??
For the DATC system, it's "To enter the self-test, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTOMATIC button within two seconds."

I am coming more and more to the conclusion, there is corrosion in the CJB and cause this issue.
I see no data presented that would remotely suggest that as a possibility. The only thing that the CJB does in regards to the operation of the control module is to provide the two power feeds that you have already checked and found to be correct.

Will the module power up if only the connector that has the power and ground (C228-a) is connected?

 
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 11:28 AM
  #19  
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[QUOTE=Will the module power up if only the connector that has the power and ground (C228-a) is connected?[/QUOTE]

Yes, it powers up, if I only connect pin 2 (ground), Pin 3 (steady power) and Pin 16 (power only in RUN condition).

I tried the DATC self test (with both connectors fully connected), and it does not work (display still dark)
 
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 12:19 PM
  #20  
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Yes, it powers up, if I only connect pin 2 (ground), Pin 3 (steady power) and Pin 16 (power only in RUN condition).
I didn't ask about that configuration (already provided). What about the COMPLETE connector (as asked)?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 01:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
I didn't ask about that configuration (already provided). What about the COMPLETE connector (as asked)?
Sorry, I misunderstood.

If I connect only the connector 228-a, it will NOT power up.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2021 | 05:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
I didn't ask about that configuration (already provided). What about the COMPLETE connector (as asked)?
Today I noticed, the power on Pin 16 "disappears", when i connect both connectors like it "should be"..

Anymore thoughts?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2021 | 05:26 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by donmi
Today I noticed, the power on Pin 16 "disappears", when i connect both connectors like it "should be"..

Anymore thoughts?

Well, that's an interesting and probably critical observation. It does bring up questions regarding previous reports regarding the unit powering up when only the ground and two power feeds were applied (post #19, for example).

1.When you performed that earlier test, were you using the pins from the factory harness for C228-a or were you using external wiring and a different power source?

2. In the same vein, when you reported in post #1 that you had power and ground, was the connector connected or disconnected from the unit when you made those checks?

3. Is this observation about the "disappearing" power only happen when both connectors are connected or only when C228-a is connected?

 
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Old Jan 31, 2021 | 02:48 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Well, that's an interesting and probably critical observation. It does bring up questions regarding previous reports regarding the unit powering up when only the ground and two power feeds were applied (post #19, for example).

1.When you performed that earlier test, were you using the pins from the factory harness for C228-a or were you using external wiring and a different power source?

2. In the same vein, when you reported in post #1 that you had power and ground, was the connector connected or disconnected from the unit when you made those checks?

3. Is this observation about the "disappearing" power only happen when both connectors are connected or only when C228-a is connected?
#1 - I did both, from an external source and from the factory wiring harness using a "spare" C228a connector with cable ends on it. Same results for both tests

#2 - using the "spare" connector, only Pin 2, 3 and 16 were connected, to the original connector

#3 - It happened with C228a alone connected AND with both.

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 31, 2021 | 04:52 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by alloro
Try running a self test on the ETAC.
Ford EATC Self Diagnostics (idmsvcs.com)
So now I have a panel where the self test is working (only connect Pin 2,3 and 16 from factory wiring)
This what I got:
22 66, 22 67, 22 68, 12 61, 12 51, 12 55, 24 11

Does that help?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2021 | 09:14 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by donmi
This what I got:
22 66, 22 67, 22 68, 12 61, 12 51, 12 55, 24 11
Here is the list I have for your vehicle. All the codes are expected because they indicate an open in the circuit. The one exception is 2266 which indicates a blend door actuator failure or a short in it's circuit.


 
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Old Feb 1, 2021 | 01:50 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by alloro
Here is the list I have for your vehicle. All the codes are expected because they indicate an open in the circuit. The one exception is 2266 which indicates a blend door actuator failure or a short in it's circuit.
Is 2266 still interesting, even only the power was connected?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2021 | 02:04 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by donmi
Is 2266 still interesting, even only the power was connected?
No. All of those fault codes are likely due to the disconnected actuators and sensors.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2021 | 07:35 PM
  #29  
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Smile

YEAHHHHHH PARTIAL SUCCESS!!!

So, today I cut the wire going to Pin 16 (wht / vio, power in RUN position) and provided external power to Pin 16 and VOILA, the panel is working.
All switches are working, the fan was working with a slight noise and stopped working after 5 minutes, probably some dirt in there or fuse blew (first run after over 3 years outside)
The cooling / heating switches of the seats were working, driver side stopped after 5 min. as well, but there was lots of condensation in the SUV, probably blew also the fuse.

So, now I have to find out where the problem is between fuse 13 and the connector C228a.......
the only DTC with the self test is 2411 (A/C humidity sensor open circuit)
 
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Old Feb 2, 2021 | 08:53 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by donmi
So, now I have to find out where the problem is between fuse 13 and the connector C228a.......the only DTC with the self test is 2411 (A/C humidity sensor open circuit)
FYI, there is no connector between those two points, but there is one splice.
When I click the location for the splice all it says is: "Location: Wiring harness - Main (14401) near T/O to, C270f"
Maybe that makes sense to you, I know it doesn't make much sense to me.
 
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