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Just did some recent work on my truck, clutch safety switch went so I hard wired them together. Ended up blowing the 10amp fuse for the cluster, and throttle, fixed it and now my battery’s have died completely. Was starting fine until I put a new fuse in and noticed the voltage dropping
I believe I have a parasitic drain caused by a fuse. Truck just started doing this after hard wiring clutch safety switch as it has a zf6, and blown a 10amp fuse for cluster and throttle.
The link below is a good method of identifying a parasitic battery drain with a multi-meter. If you don't have one, they can be bought at places like Harbor Freight for just a few dollars. I carry one in my truck and one in my camper for those moments when a switch breaks or something is not quite right.
If you remove the "hard wire", does the parasitic drain go away? We don't generally recommend a clutch safety switch be bypassed as it can be a big safety risk for an uniformed driver. That is besides the point though and we would like to help you out.
Which wires did you splice together at the clutch safety switch? Did you cut/splice any other wires?
Waiting on a buddy to bring over a multimeter, I had hard wired the blue/red and white/red wire together leaving the other two alone. Also replaced the ten amp fuse in location #19
What what you have done there looks to be correct as per the service manual, it's actually a dark blue/orange and white/pink. I'd say the problem lies somewhere other than the clutch switch.
Hopefully those wires twisted together were at least taped up.
The link Sous posted is similar to the process I like to follow for parasitic draw tests, there are also some good videos on YouTube (South Main Auto, Eric the Car Guy). Lowes has good Southwire meters, I am a fan of those.
Make sure your door is closed when you do this test, I once chased a ghost for 15 minutes until I realized I had a door open and the interior lights were on...
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