Build/bought/B**** thread
Got the baja bar pulled off the front without issue, looks so much cleaner now. Didn't realize the bolts holding the bar on were also the main bumper bolts, so we had a little "oh crap" moment when the last bolt came out and the bumper dropped about one inch LOL.
Started assembling the S&B Intake that arrived today and step 1 was as far as I got. The holes for the intake spout to mount to the main box did not align and I didn't feel like drilling on a brand new $300 box. Sent pics to S&B, waiting to hear which part they goofed up and are replacing. So that projects on hold.
Looks like the trans cooler will go in starting Saturday morning, unless the oil cooler rebuild kit shows up before then as thats the priority.
edge CTS3 installed, trans temp sensor installed, had to go out and find a tap for the EGT probe, I thought I read that the kit came with one. Waiting on my last order to arrive from riffraff for the AIH delete plug/boost sensor install location but I’ll go ahead and get the wiring ran.
downpipe and hangers have been soaked in PB blaster for the MBRP swap.
trans cooler and magnafine filter are ready to go in tomorrow.
3/8” tubing is ready for the door weather stripping, hoping to cut down on road noise and firm up the door closing.
Stereo install kit arrives tomorrow, dash is already pulled and old unit out.
Oil cooler rebuild kit was supposed to arrive today, but nothing showed up.
S&B is shipping me a new air box and snorkel, the one I received had the holes drilled wrong. If I knew it would be the end of next week before I got it, I probably would have just re-cut the holes and made it work. Oh well.
any tips/tricks for any of the above projects?
Run cables for any of the inputs and outputs you think you may want at any point. In mine, I went ahead and ran cables for amplifiers, AUX inputs and outputs, video out, back camera, etc. So I can add anything and never once need to pop that dash off.
mainly I am a suspension expert but having owned 7.3 vehicles since day one I have gained a bit of knowledge and wisdom I shall pass on .
Truer words are not often spoken.
a good way to wed out potentially bad info when it comes to mods is look at the age of the post, so many of the early mods have proven over time to be just plain dumb to catastrophes
Upcoming work in order of priority:
Oil cooler reseal (DIY)
6.0 Trans cooler (DIY). I used a motorcraft one back when they still offered the 36 row but the current and affordable Dorman unit has been used by hundreds of FTE successfully. mosimoto is neat looking but needless $$$
LPOP replacement (DIY)
Body bushings (Waiting on a quote, not excited about doing these myself LOL)
JW Valve body (DIY)
Hellwig sway bar (DIY). research my body of work here on FTE in regards to suspension, but I promise you the rear sway bar is only a bandaid. start a new thread and I will work with tiresely to get your suspension sorted out rather then put a band aid on. the rear sway bar fixes nothing other then giving any back seat passengers a horrible ride quality
MBRP 4" exhaust (DIY)
S&B Intake (DIY). this is old school back in the day black magic generated from their ( and other makes) great marketing campaigns. if you want the best AIR FILTERATION and DIRT HOLDING filter available then look no further the the Ford AIS filter and housing that was developed by Donaldson for their off highway ( thing mining companies ) customers. now available from many suppliers including Amazon. for stock motors with the hottest tunes it has been dyne proven to be plenty of air flow. the oiled gauze style filters like K@N and S@B went out with the 80's, racers rarely even use that crap any more. dont get sucked into the BS marketing.. you want Filtration and dirt holding capacity.
Hydra chip (DIY). yes very fun, get ready to build a $5000 trans. we can recommend great shops as soon as your is smoked.
Regulated fuel return/fuel bowl delete (DIY). blunt reply and no disrespect meant but that is just stupid. popular old mod and one only needed in Radical race engines and even then they are inferior to the stock setup for your Daily Drive needs
Fuel tank drop/clean (DIY). great idea. resist the urge to modify think you do not understand the engineering on.
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second part of the water pump maintaince at your milage is to avoid a son to happen break down the entire cooling system should be done at the same time.
Radiator. Autozone believe it or not it includes a life time warranty AND is 100% identical to the motorcraft replacement at about 1/3 the cost. I cut one of each apart and closely examined them
all 5 coolant hoses- Gates
recovery tank - Dorman. ( no other choice and some have failed father quickly )
cap.- motorcraft
clutch hub - motorcraft. ( ouch its speedy )
Thermostat and o ring. Motorcraft only. ( its design is different then the stant and the stant WILL leak in the correct motorcraft or IH pump
tensioner and pulley. motorcraft, big box store are going to use cheap Chinese bearings and are noting more then a very temp emergency patch
belt. Motorcrate / Gates
what steps have you taken to address the bigger issue of where the water source came from ? likely the last place you refilled your tank, they likely have a problem and should be addressed or avoided.
A complaint to your states Bureau of Automotive Repair or if in California then the ARB or Air Research Board who regulates fueling stations. they will come out and test sample the stations current fuel supply and had itor if it does blown your motor up there is a course of action you can follow up on.
the stock fuel system on your 7.3 is a great design overall and more then adequate for a stock motor even with the hottest tune. you would be a FOOL to remove your stock bowl or
fiddle with the system as it is already a regulated return.
every 100k the stock Fuel pressure regulator needs the popes valve to be replaced. I recommend the Diesel oranges or riff riff billet housing and nut and the stock cast aluminum will strip during or soon after your rebuilt. Check your Current WOT fuel PSI. this will tell you everything you need to know.
I apologize for being harsh here but poor choice in unit bearing parts parts unless you had them order the Spicer parts, speaking of Dana Spicer. amazon and eBay you are almost assured to get counterfeit spicer parts.
venturetruckparts.com should be added to your riff raff and diesel O rings list of trusted suppliers. they are very helpful and only sell real SPICER parts which is the only thing you should be using on your front axle. ( fyi, motorcraft also repackages spicer parts and are OEM quality just a bit more $$ but your local ford dealer has them unstuck if you get in a pinch. )
first off I am going to admit I rarely reply in this fashion to a post with so many issues and especially to a member whom I have not established a certain level of trust from prior help on projects.
mainly I am a suspension expert but having owned 7.3 vehicles since day one I have gained a bit of knowledge and wisdom I shall pass along simple because I have had to much coffee this morning and a few minutes to spare due to weather delay departing on my next yacht delivery, a few of your mentioned items jumped off the page suggesting you are getting far to much old info off the internet
pirate, thanks for all the info! Will definitely go back and re-evaluate some of the upcoming work and see where my parts may “fall short”.
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