BROKE HEAD STUD, WHAT NOW?
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BROKE HEAD STUD, WHAT NOW?
2006 F350 Lariat, 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel.
The Problem: I had a bad oil leak on between the rocker box and the head on both driver and passenger side. No symptoms of blown head gasket. Wanting to sell the truck, but wanting to sell it without an issue. So I embarked on pulling the heads and resealing all on the way back in.
My solution: I decided to do a head gasket job and replace rocker box seals at the same time. I pulled the driver side first since it was easier. I took a lot of time cleaning the block and head being very careful not to gouge the surface,etc. When putting it back in with OEM head gaskets, I used head studs from IFJF Automotive Products. I stepped the torqueing using the pattern recommended, in increments of 50, 100, 150, 210ft-lbs. the 4th bolt broke just before 210ft-lbs. Now I'm stuck with a bolt broke off in the block.
Can I remove it without removing the head again? Likely not.
When I remove the head is the head gasket toast or can I reset it?
How do I remove the remaining bolt fragment? Sounds like a bitch at close to 210ft-lbs.
Should I go OEM bolts or ARP studs?
Seems like I keep learning the lesson that going cheap doesn't pay over and over. Lifetime warranty doesn't mean quality.
The Problem: I had a bad oil leak on between the rocker box and the head on both driver and passenger side. No symptoms of blown head gasket. Wanting to sell the truck, but wanting to sell it without an issue. So I embarked on pulling the heads and resealing all on the way back in.
My solution: I decided to do a head gasket job and replace rocker box seals at the same time. I pulled the driver side first since it was easier. I took a lot of time cleaning the block and head being very careful not to gouge the surface,etc. When putting it back in with OEM head gaskets, I used head studs from IFJF Automotive Products. I stepped the torqueing using the pattern recommended, in increments of 50, 100, 150, 210ft-lbs. the 4th bolt broke just before 210ft-lbs. Now I'm stuck with a bolt broke off in the block.
Can I remove it without removing the head again? Likely not.
When I remove the head is the head gasket toast or can I reset it?
How do I remove the remaining bolt fragment? Sounds like a bitch at close to 210ft-lbs.
Should I go OEM bolts or ARP studs?
Seems like I keep learning the lesson that going cheap doesn't pay over and over. Lifetime warranty doesn't mean quality.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 972
Likes: 224
From: Linden, Ca.
How far down did it break off at? You are going to have to pull the head back off to remove the remnant, sorry. The torque value is a CLAMPING force, NOT a bottoming out of the stud in the block. So once you pull the head off, the remnant "should" unscrew fairly easily. UNLESS, you used a thread locker or the threads were dirty. Yes, go with ARP. I would think the gasket should be fine. But, they are cheap so if you want to err on the side of caution...... B.
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Not sure. About to pull head back off. Hoping not far. I installed hand tight with light oil on bottom threads (according to dieseltechron). Hoping for an easy extraction. I'll wait for proper studs before trying again. Thanks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
The Chinese head studs are definitely not the same tensile as ARP. I have had plenty of customers try to get me to install them and I won't. They stretch like a TTY and you can feel them yield which isn't good. The head gasket should not be reused!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 219
From: Northwest
You may want to drill a straight pilot hole into the stud with the head on. Basically use the head as a guide to drill straight. Use a piece of tubing to center the pilot bit in the head hole.
Then remove the head, easy out the stud and install head with a new head gasket.
You could try to easy out the stud with the head on... Depending on how the stud broke off (grain of metal at the break)
Hobo
Then remove the head, easy out the stud and install head with a new head gasket.
You could try to easy out the stud with the head on... Depending on how the stud broke off (grain of metal at the break)
Hobo
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Itdepends on where the stud snapped. It may be above the deck surface. Even below, it may not be distorted and pushing a wooden dowel against the surface may gain enough of a bite to back it out.
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Got it out. Pulled the head off. Bolt was sheared off about 1" down. I was able to press the broken part against the sheared bolt and turn it out by hand with just the pressure and the interlocking of the sheared sections. What a relief. The head gasket looks untouched.
I think its safe to reuse. What a turn of events.
I think its safe to reuse. What a turn of events.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
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From: Spanaway
Nice to hear you got the broken end out. I had one stuck in the back right under the master cylinder.
Needless to say the engine had to come out. When I got it on the stand it still was a fight. The former
owner of the truck did all sorts of screwball things that have come up to bite me.
If you started to put torque on the gasket it going to need to be replaced. A gasket is less than the headache
of having to pull it all down for a leak.
On studs. I would go with ARP. Where did you get the studs your used? I would ask for my money back.
Needless to say the engine had to come out. When I got it on the stand it still was a fight. The former
owner of the truck did all sorts of screwball things that have come up to bite me.
If you started to put torque on the gasket it going to need to be replaced. A gasket is less than the headache
of having to pull it all down for a leak.
On studs. I would go with ARP. Where did you get the studs your used? I would ask for my money back.
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The box said "iFJF Automotive Products". I will be asking for my money back. I'll send them all the bolts including the broken one. LOL.
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