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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L It used to start at any temp even 0degrees with out plugging it in. Now it won't start unless its plugged in. I have replaced everything glow plugs, glow plug wiring, relay ICP, IPR ECM. It just won't start unless its been plugged in. Also its seems the wait to start stays on a lot longer than it normally did. I am out of ideas?
I'd confirm that the glow plug system is actually working. You could have a problem with the ground line to the PCM. When you first turn the key on do you have power on the load side of the relay?
When it doesn't want to start is there smoke? If no might be a fuel side problem. No idea why plugging it in would effect that but I've stopped being surprised by the unexplained on these trucks. Is it building hpo like it should?
I'm no expert, but could fuel bowl heater be a potential cause?
The fuel bowl heater should be unplugged at the back of the fuel bowl. In the lower 49 states it is not needed. IF the heater wire brakes, the truck will not start at all because it has shorted out and blew fuse #30. As with plugging in the block heater, this should not be needed unless the temp gets very cold or to help with faster starts.
I have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L It used to start at any temp even 0degrees with out plugging it in. Now it won't start unless its plugged in. I have replaced everything glow plugs, glow plug wiring, relay ICP, IPR ECM. It just won't start unless its been plugged in. Also its seems the wait to start stays on a lot longer than it normally did. I am out of ideas?
Have you changed your oil to a thinner grade for the winter?
Fuel does not get into the cylinder until 'oil pressure' opens the injectors. Thick cold oil may not be opening the injectors up. Plugging the truck in, heats up and thins out the oil and will allow the injectors to open faster.
Also, you can try cycling you glow plug (wait to start) a couple of time to heat the fuel up (if the GPR/plugs are working)
Also, get a 12v meter that plugs into the power port on the dash to see what your electrical voltage is doing.
1) 12.5 key off
2) key on and GPR comes on...11.5v
3) crank starter ..11.v (if the voltage drops below 10.5v, there is not enough voltage to start the truck.
4) once the truck is started the voltage will go up Slowly after the GPR is off and settle at the output of the Alternator....13.5v
5) any large variation in these numbers then something is wrong and needs to be fixed.....
Do a Buzz test.... its a 20 year old truck... have you checked the gaps on the injector armature. If gap is to small, the old cold oil is having trouble getting thru.... cranks after being plugged in, as oil is warm...
Have you changed your oil to a thinner grade for the winter?
Fuel does not get into the cylinder until 'oil pressure' opens the injectors. Thick cold oil may not be opening the injectors up. Plugging the truck in, heats up and thins out the oil and will allow the injectors to open faster.
Also, you can try cycling you glow plug (wait to start) a couple of time to heat the fuel up (if the GPR/plugs are working)
Also, get a 12v meter that plugs into the power port on the dash to see what your electrical voltage is doing.
1) 12.5 key off
2) key on and GPR comes on...11.5v
3) crank starter ..11.v (if the voltage drops below 10.5v, there is not enough voltage to start the truck.
4) once the truck is started the voltage will go up Slowly after the GPR is off and settle at the output of the Alternator....13.5v
5) any large variation in these numbers then something is wrong and needs to be fixed.....
This is a good read. All this has to be met for it to work properly. With it plugged in and warm, the glow plugs won't stay on as long or at all I believe. Also, check and see how long the relay stays on before it times out. Power to the the plugs. Could have a bad relay out of the box.
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