So I just bought a 1966 F100 with a what i think is a 352. It has sat for 7-8 years before I take it to get the suspension fixed on it I really wanted to get it started. Here is where I could use some advice. I was told to take the spark plugs out and put oil or trans fluid in the spark plug holes and let it sit for 3-4 days. I'm a little hesitant to do that? Any Advice?

Also does anyone have good tricks to clean out the gas tank without taking it out of the cab? I would love to just drain it, clean it and put new fuel in.

Thanks

Jason

 

Do not put trans fluid in the cylinders. Light oil would be OK if you could wipe down the cylinder walls, but with the heads on, remove all the plugs and spray either WD-40 or PB blaster in each cylinder. Remove the valve covers so you can observe the pushrods and rotate the crank by hand. Make sure all the valves go through their full range of motion. You don't need a micrometer, just compare them to each other to see if you have a collapsed or stuck lifter.

If it spins freely and the valvetrain looks good, spin it over several times with the starter to check the compression of each cylinder and the oil pressure. Check to make sure you have spark. Once you verify there is both compression and fire, remove the top of the carb and pour some gas in the bowl. Put the carb top back on and pump the gas pedal a couple of times. Close the choke. It should fire up pretty quick if you've made it this far.

If the gas has been sitting for years and the condition of the fuel lines and tank are unknown, run a short length of hose from the fuel pump down to a gas can.

 

Welcome to FTE

Yeah, you want to pull a fuel sample. Do Not try to run old stale varnished gasoline. Don't try to dilute it. Pull the fuel sender and shine a flashlight down in there and look. Take a whiff, stale fuel smells like paint, or varnish, or worse and will have sludge and tar and nasty things in the tank. It will burn but it will fv$@& your motor up. Drain the old stuff, do yourself a favor and buy a new fuel tank, if necessary.

Soaking the pistons isn't a bad idea, I like Marvel's mystery oil for this, some will run past the rings anyway and get in the crankcase oil, this won't hurt anything unlike some other stuff you can leave it in the crankcase. Turn the motor over by hand a few rotations every day or so. Run some Marvel's in the fuel itself too. What you're trying to avoid is stuck lifters, valves, etc and pretzled pushrods.

Don't roast your starter & solenoid trying to get it to start. This is a rookie move. Let it cool down for fifteen minutes or so if it won't light off in 10 seconds. If you have spark, fuel, and compression, it will start right up.

Remember a well tuned engine will light off in just a split second, that's why a small starter motor can turn over a big engine without burning up, it's only needed for a short duty cycle. Thus Endeth The Lecture. Just trying to save you money.

Because ... you're gonna need a wheelbarrow full with an old truck! (Kidding .. but only a little)

 

My 65 with the 352/390 sat in the elements for 7 years, changed oil, replaced with fresh fuel, plugs: IMO, most important is check for cracks or frayed ignition wires and no fuel line or carburetor leaks from gaskets or seals, a combination of both could be result in an engine bay fire. Speaking from experience. .

 

I meant to mention changing the oil after you verify the compression is good. No point in throwing away money on an oil change if the motor needs to be rebuilt.