Advice wanted: Break system update
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New User
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From: Bonney Lake
Pictures as promised
Leaking master cylinder. One of the culprits
It’s somewhat hard to see but I believe this is one of the main culprits (leaking valve)?
from what I’ve inspected so far. I believe this valve, and the master cylinder are the first to replace. Everything else looks relatively normal.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
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From: Tri Cities, TN
I can't say for sure but it appears that a previous owner added power brakes from a newer truck and didn't understand the differences between drum and disc brake systems. That is a proportioning valve and it is not needed in fact it will interfere with your brakes working correctly. Also if they used a disc brake master cylinder it will not have a residual pressure valve in it on the front brake side. A drum brake master has residual pressure valves on both the front and rear brake lines.
Lucky you, now you get to sort out someone else's mess.
Lucky you, now you get to sort out someone else's mess.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Seattle
Dana 44 is a closed knuckle. Judging from the 12 bolts holding the seal plates on I'd guess heavy duty 3,500 lbs axle. Wheel side picture of locking hub or whatever is on the outside would help confirm that. No disc brake conversion kits for that front axle that I know of.
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From: Bonney Lake
Hopefully someone can confirm if that is indeed what happened.
What is the process on getting this brake system straightened out? Proper master cylinder, brake booster and valve appropriate for drum breaks?
Anyone have a link for the correct products? Sorting through all these various break boosters and components has become quite taxing
as for the disc conversion, I am content with the drum setup as it won’t see too much highway driving.
What is the process on getting this brake system straightened out? Proper master cylinder, brake booster and valve appropriate for drum breaks?
Anyone have a link for the correct products? Sorting through all these various break boosters and components has become quite taxing
as for the disc conversion, I am content with the drum setup as it won’t see too much highway driving.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,467
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From: Tri Cities, TN
As far as the proportioning valve when you run new lines just replace it with a simple distribution block. You can probably get one at NAPA. It looks to me like you are going to have to go thru the entire brake system. I would highly recommend you buy a shop manual they are reproduced and the originals are still around on e-bay. If that is a FORD booster you can probably use a drum brake master cylinder from something slightly newer that had a split system. You are kinda on your own here unless you can find part numbers on the booster. But from that picture that doesn't look like a Ford master cylinder to me. But I could be wrong about that.
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From: Bonney Lake
I confirmed I have the Dana 44 HD - no applicable power break swap.
as for the matter at hand — isn’t it as easy as replacing the leaky valve and break master cylinder and seeing if the breaks work properly?
in my mind, I should be able to replace this valve with a distribution block as noted and find a proper master cylinder and be off to the races
as for the matter at hand — isn’t it as easy as replacing the leaky valve and break master cylinder and seeing if the breaks work properly?
in my mind, I should be able to replace this valve with a distribution block as noted and find a proper master cylinder and be off to the races
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Seattle
the brakes are in need of serious attention.
the current brake system has leaking components (master cylinder, differential proportional valve) and probably other issues I’m not aware of(the breaks are almost non existent)
now, what do you guys recommend and what components should be replaced to get the system in working, Safe order?
the current brake system has leaking components (master cylinder, differential proportional valve) and probably other issues I’m not aware of(the breaks are almost non existent)
now, what do you guys recommend and what components should be replaced to get the system in working, Safe order?
I'd replace the rear soft line going to the wheel cylinder on what looks like the left rear with a hard line there. I'd probably consider opening the drums up and seeing what it looks like in there. Judging from the backing plates it might not be whistle clean in there or checked in a long time. I often like to put enough new brake fluid in to pass through the entire system as I bleed it out (I use a pressure pot) and really replace the old fluid at least. I'd make sure I knew the brakes would work as good as hoped if I were approaching a stopped car or a kid in the road suddenly fetching a ball. But if you just mean going down the road for a test you have the ball in your court, of course.
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From: Bonney Lake
I think you answered that in your first post. I removed some extraneous portions in the quote. I suppose it depends on what your going to be racing.
I'd replace the rear soft line going to the wheel cylinder on what looks like the left rear with a hard line there. I'd probably consider opening the drums up and seeing what it looks like in there. Judging from the backing plates it might not be whistle clean in there or checked in a long time. I often like to put enough new brake fluid in to pass through the entire system as I bleed it out (I use a pressure pot) and really replace the old fluid at least. I'd make sure I knew the brakes would work as good as hoped if I were approaching a stopped car or a kid in the road suddenly fetching a ball. But if you just mean going down the road for a test you have the ball in your court, of course.
I'd replace the rear soft line going to the wheel cylinder on what looks like the left rear with a hard line there. I'd probably consider opening the drums up and seeing what it looks like in there. Judging from the backing plates it might not be whistle clean in there or checked in a long time. I often like to put enough new brake fluid in to pass through the entire system as I bleed it out (I use a pressure pot) and really replace the old fluid at least. I'd make sure I knew the brakes would work as good as hoped if I were approaching a stopped car or a kid in the road suddenly fetching a ball. But if you just mean going down the road for a test you have the ball in your court, of course.
Ordered the replacement parts and the new brake lines hopefully will be installing in the coming weeks if my other projects permit. I see you're an active member here. Your input would be much appreciated on my latest thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19623960
Thank you guys
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