E4OD torque converter not locking properly
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Trailering
Joined: Nov 2020
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E4OD torque converter not locking properly
I've got 1990 f250 with 5.8 and E4OD. The previous owner paid to have the engine replaced then the truck sat. I have found some stuff just not hooked up as I've been going through it, but this has me stumped.
When driving the transmission shifts great, but the torque converter doesn't lock up. Now if I'm doing 45+ and roll into about half throttle it will lock. If I let back off lower than half throttle in unlocks again. Does the same if OD is turned off to lock out 4th gear.
Warmed up KOEO codes
First round of codes 87 87 33
Second round of codes 41 33 41
KOER codes 44 33 74
EGR and air pump removed from truck.
Any input on what this could be is appreciated.
When driving the transmission shifts great, but the torque converter doesn't lock up. Now if I'm doing 45+ and roll into about half throttle it will lock. If I let back off lower than half throttle in unlocks again. Does the same if OD is turned off to lock out 4th gear.
Warmed up KOEO codes
First round of codes 87 87 33
Second round of codes 41 33 41
KOER codes 44 33 74
EGR and air pump removed from truck.
Any input on what this could be is appreciated.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 2,669
From: SE Florida
Code 74 means either you didn't press the brake pedal during the test, or the circuit is shorted to ground. If the circuit has a problem the PCM won't lock the converter until the accelerator is pressed much further than normal. This may be your problem.
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Trailering
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 24
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The third brake light is burnt out. I'll start there. The bed was rotted out so I replaced it with a flat bed. When doing this I wired up led tail lights. There was an issue with the brake lights not working properly until I replaced the turn signal switch. I also added an LED flasher under the dash.
If the third brake light doesn't fix it I'm guessing I might need to add resistors to the brake lights?
Also, will any of those codes turn the check engine light on? When I start the truck the light is off. Once warm and driving it lights up.
If the third brake light doesn't fix it I'm guessing I might need to add resistors to the brake lights?
Also, will any of those codes turn the check engine light on? When I start the truck the light is off. Once warm and driving it lights up.
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
I'll buy the resistors and wire them up. Hopefully that fixes it. After more reading I found that 1990 does not have a third brake light. The light I'm seeing is actually and courtesy light/ cargo light.
Just adding info as I find it so it's all in one thread.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 294
From: Laramie, WY
You definitely need the resistors. I have had LED taillights in my flatbed for several years, carry a spare resistor as a backup.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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Correct. No brake 3rd brake light in this body style.
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Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 24
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Resistors are in and now it works perfect. Might lock a little too soon for my taste at light throttle, but locks up just the same. Also my cruise control works now!
Little more work and my snow beater will be good as new. Thanks for the help!
Little more work and my snow beater will be good as new. Thanks for the help!
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
We have a 1991 E-350 motorhome which I put led lights on to replace the old and busted incandescent housings. It has similar symptoms, if not the same, to what OP was running into. And would I wire it inline with the running lights or brake lights or right out of the brake light switch on the pedal?
Also, I feel I should mention that when the key is on with the engine off, the led brake lights are dim, but illuminated nonetheless. Is that normal? I put led bulbs in my 1990 F-250 and it did the same thing.
thanks
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Trailering
Joined: Nov 2020
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I know this is an old thread, but what kind of resistors did DrHoliday get and where?
We have a 1991 E-350 motorhome which I put led lights on to replace the old and busted incandescent housings. It has similar symptoms, if not the same, to what OP was running into. And would I wire it inline with the running lights or brake lights or right out of the brake light switch on the pedal?
Also, I feel I should mention that when the key is on with the engine off, the led brake lights are dim, but illuminated nonetheless. Is that normal? I put led bulbs in my 1990 F-250 and it did the same thing.
thanks
We have a 1991 E-350 motorhome which I put led lights on to replace the old and busted incandescent housings. It has similar symptoms, if not the same, to what OP was running into. And would I wire it inline with the running lights or brake lights or right out of the brake light switch on the pedal?
Also, I feel I should mention that when the key is on with the engine off, the led brake lights are dim, but illuminated nonetheless. Is that normal? I put led bulbs in my 1990 F-250 and it did the same thing.
thanks
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 425
Likes: 1
From: Fayetteville, TN
Thank you!!!!! I know this is an older thread but, I bought an E350 ambulance a while back and the torque converter was a locking up properly. After messing around with a couple other things I found this thread and I installed a couple resistors today and now the transmission works perfectly. It's no telling how long the previews owner was driving around without the torque converter working right.
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