Any cautions on using hard lines from a junkyard?

I went to the local pull-a-part today looking for a bench seat. Came away with a new glove box door and 7/8 of a 7.3 IDI injector lines.(one was gone). Why? My truck didn't have the line clamps when I bought it. I purchase some, but found that the lines had been mangles/repositioned enough to where the clamps wouldn't work like factory. In fact, a couple of the lines had rested on each other long enough to where the top line has worn a groove into the bottom line (where they inexplicable crossover).

My truck is a 6.9 - my understanding is that the 6.9 and 7.3 lines are interchangeable.

The lines i just pulled were no longer attached to the injectors, but still had diesel in them. The passenger side was even still clamped together (driver had a line removed, and the clamps were laying right there. These look to be in a better "shape", (literally) than mine, but mine still have the grey paint and seem to work fine. Rust exists underneath the clamps on the junkyard lines, but otherwise seem good. Any alligators I need to know about?

My entire haul was $10, so im not out much if this was a mistake.

Another question - Is there any merit to going back and getting the IP? Its a 7.3 NA.

 

I would have grabbed the IP just as a core.

 

I would have grabbed the injectors and any other fuel components including the Tach sensor too etc etc

I use Evaporust in the Ultrasonic cleaner to clean such things.

you need to use the Line Clamp/Dampers as you will have short line life without them.

 

Thanks - I wish I would have known. I will be going back, So I will pull things shortly. I did "rig" vibration dampening to my current lines as i could - I used the aftermarket clamps to tie lines together where I could, and jammed rubber fuel hose between other lines throughout to try and reduce the vibrations, which I read are the devil for Injector lines (many of my fuel line dampers are a tight fit, maybe I could zip tie for extra dampening).

Are injector cores useful? That's a shame since I (apparently, foolishly) threw away 8 earlier this year when I replaced my injectors. I would totally go pull everything else if I knew it would help later on. I don't want to hose the next guy, but if that stuff will work on the 6.9 i'm totally in.

I'm an idiot, so I don't know what/where the tach sensor is. I don't have one in my 86', but If I could get a tach working, I would in a heartbeat.

And unrelated: I didn't get the seat because I broke my ratchet on a bolt. Heavier duty tools will accompany me upon my return in a couple days.

Also, If anyone is interested in a decent-looking 7.3 core, I can tell you where to find one (haha). I mean, the stickers on the valve cover were damn readable/not old looking. I got dibs on the radiator. I put the hood back down when I left to try and save on it (was open when I got there).

 

I rebuild the injectors myself .. that's why I save and collect them and yes they do have a Core value too.
IF you have a POP Tester you can clean em and test em. to rebuild them you just need to make a holding fixture.. I store them with ATF in them
grab a copy of the Stanadyne Conventional Injector Service Manual

using rubber hose and clamping the lines best you can is way better than nothing at all ... Good Job there

 

The 6.9 injector lines where a slightly smaller diameter than the 7.3

Length is imparative for timing. I'd assume volume matters as well. So a slightly different cross-sectional injector line might lead to a delayed pop pressure if you are mixing and matching 6.9 and 7.3 injector lines.

I've run 7.3 lines on my 6.9 without issues. But all my lines were from the same setup (no mix and match). just a thought. I'd be interested in seeing if the varied cross-section would result in differential pop timing.



Evaporust is magic. I was restoring my window jams and putting in new oak for the trim and sills. I took the original 1941 steel hardware from the jamb and laid it in evaporust. The hardware had at least a 1/16" of caked rust and gunk on it. One of the retractors wouldn't even budge. Two days later, it all looked like it was brand new.

 

there is not enough cross sectional difference between the 6.9 and 7.3 to make any difference.

the lines are designed to be all about the same length ...since fluid cannot be Compressed when all the air is out of the system you are gonna get the same amount of fuel volume from the Plunger.

I didn't see any timing difference when I changed a Line set from a 6.9 to 7.3 lines verified with Luminosity timing method... as I thought I might have to change timing a bit.

where it would make a difference is if you were using a Larger CC pump and higher volume injectors you might want to change line size to larger but for OEM you won't notice a difference.

changing Line Lengths will make more of a difference in timing.

when buying a new set they are generally Universal https://www.accuratediesel.com/ford-...th-clamps.html

 

Definitely go back and get that IP and those injectors.

 

You're going to need the timing adapter off #1 injector to run that line on your 6.9, if you're pulling this out of a van or uhaul #4 is the line on those.

Basically the 7.3 line is a little shorter on one cylinder for the timing adapter that they used to set the timing. You just need it with that line so it stays the same length as the rest.

If that engine looks nice, I would grab the oil cooler as a spare in a heartbeat. Just the center tube is 250/300 from Ford....filter end is discontinued, other one was pretty pricey from what I remember too. And the vacuum pump too, as the local parts stores want way too much for them.

 

BTW I just went thru my Stanadyne service manuals and line sizes for the 6.9 and the 7.3 are both spec'ed for .063

so I'm not sure where this Different diameter lines came from.... BUT I to thought there was about a .002 difference... but no according to Stanadyne.

 

To make it easy at the JY to remove the IP. Unscrew all 8 fuel lines at the Injectors.
Then remove the 2 Bolts/Nuts that hold the Timing Gear cover down. Then just lift
Cover and IP assy off. Then you can easily remove the Pump from the Timing Gear.

I use to fight it in the JY trying to remove the 3 nuts that hold the Pump to the Gear.
Then I saw a Pump still attached to the Timing Cover removed for an 85 6.9 sitting in
another vehicle close by. Think some one removed it, thinking they would come back
later for it. Except it is now sitting in my shop. Thanks guy.

Also leave the Hard lines attached to the Pump, or you will be charged for each line
separately. Most times they will sell it as an assembly. Most of the dumb a---`s at
the counter have no clue what it is anyway.

I always grab the Injectors, must have 50 of them. ...... me a horder........NAAAA.



Charlie

 

^^^^^^^ I 100% agree... me hoarder too

 

Me three but the closest yard wants $40/piece for injectors....

I also have the best luck buying the whole assembly. Used to pay 50-60$ for the timing cover, pump and all the lines. They would only charge for one or two of the lines. Never got a pump used that didn't work.

 

Injectors $8.00 each at PAP.. pump with lines cover 63 bux IF the injectors are screwed back on the lines you tell them it is a Fuel Spider and that way they charge 63 bux for the whole shebang
They look at it and say Yep looks like a Spider to me

you can check all prices here https://www.pullapart.com/