When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, I recently picked up a C80E-6015A 302 block bored .030 over with a pair of its original heads. So far I know it’s a 68 block.
Planning to build and place it into my 62 Flareside which has a 223. I’m curious as to what these heads are (# C80E-J), and if they have any potential.
As seen in the pictures they have a brass nozzle going into the exhaust ports. What were they for?
This is my first time building
a Windsor Ford so any pointers would be nice.
Looks like they have the larger open chambers so they are nothing special. The brass plugs are where the air into the head smog system connected, those big nozzles in the ports won't help airflow. The pressed in rocker studs are another weak point, they tend to pull out with heavier springs and high lift cams. Overall you could substitute late model E7TE heads and fix the problems with these and not lose any performance, or if you were to find a set of GT40s you would fix everything and gain performance potential.
Chambers: 63cc
Valves: 1.78"/1.45"
Valve seats: Not hardened
Rockers: Rail type with pressed in studs.
Looks like they have the larger open chambers so they are nothing special. The brass plugs are where the air into the head smog system connected, those big nozzles in the ports won't help anything. The pressed in rocker studs are another weak point, they tend to pull out with heavier springs and high lift cams. Overall you could substitute late model E7TE heads and fix the problems with these and not lose any performance, or if you were to find a set of GT40s you would fix everything and gain performance potential.
Chambers: 63cc
Valves: 1.78"/1.45"
Valve seats: Not hardened
Rockers: Rail type with pressed in studs.
Thank you, I’ll look into some new heads with hardened seats then.
Looks like they have the larger open chambers so they are nothing special. The brass plugs are where the air into the head smog system connected, those big nozzles in the ports won't help airflow. The pressed in rocker studs are another weak point, they tend to pull out with heavier springs and high lift cams. Overall you could substitute late model E7TE heads and fix the problems with these and not lose any performance, or if you were to find a set of GT40s you would fix everything and gain performance potential.
Chambers: 63cc
Valves: 1.78"/1.45"
Valve seats: Not hardened
Rockers: Rail type with pressed in studs.
Ditto. Someone has replaced the two piece spring retainers with one piece, that's the only plus here.
Thank you, I’ll look into a set of E7s if they won’t require the rods then. 👍
Or find a set of GT40 heads (not the "P") heads. Or any set of reasonably priced after market heads. If you do get a set of E7's, get a porting bit and remove the Thermactor bumps from inside the exhaust port roofs before bolting them on. I would also open up the walls and port opening (top only) to match the header gasket. This operation takes a couple hours at most and does wonders for the exhaust flow.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
