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my carb is leaking. I think it may just need a rebuild (the entire 352 V8 engine is new in 2005; only a few thousand miles since) so I'm thinking I rebuild it ... that the leaks are just old gaskets ... unless you all think it should be replaced?
I also don't know how to tell what carb it is to get the right rebuild kit ... I'm assuming the tag identifies it but I don't know how to read it. Finally, Dennis Carpenter and LMC are my go to places for parts ... are those best spots for rebuild kits?
As always, thanks in advance for the guidance!
It appears to be leaking from the piece where the throttle linkage attaches This is the tag.
C6TF-R identifies the carb as an Autolite 2100 2 barrel for a 1966 F100 with Standard Transmission and Thermactor Emmisions (T/E not used on F250) with a 352 V8.
For parts and kits most people like Mikes carburetors.
2100 series Auto-Lite/Motorcraft carb kit is the same and there's ONLY ONE for 1962/74 all FoMoCo vehicles. It's available from Ford and auto parts stores.
For all around general use in a pickup truck it would be pretty tough to find a better carburetor. The shop manual for your truck will list the venturi size, power valve #, and jet size, etc., that should be installed. After 50 years sometimes parts get confused in there by folks.
Make sure the fuel pump isn't defective, the import replacements are notorious for excessive output pressure and would likely cause flooding. This is something to check during Tune-Up or carburetor work.
2nd vote for Mike's, he sells a bit better kits, I think. The el-cheapo power valves don't seem to hold up to modern gas, not very long anyway.
2100 series Auto-Lite/Motorcraft carb kit is the same and there's ONLY ONE for 1962/74 all FoMoCo vehicles. It's available from Ford and auto parts stores.
2150 series 2V replaced the 2100 2V in 1975. The kit is notthe same and there are 3 different 1975/79 kits.
@NumberDummy Thank you sir. Really appreciate your guidance on all my posts. @Tedster9 thanks for the counsel. I think my fuel pump is OE Ford but I'll check.
In the one pic of the side of the carb, can see the 1.14 embossed in the alloy. That means the venturi size is 1.14", the 2100 was supplied in a gazillion different configurations. 1.02", 1.08", 1.14", 1.23" etc.
They all pretty much look the same, but this is deceptive. Ford would have a specific venturi size, booster cluster (annular discharge nozzle assembly) jetting, and power valve # depending on whether it was installed in a car, or a truck, and the components would also differ on what type of transmission was installed, engine size, final gear ratio, etc. The shop manual lists this stuff.
What I'm getting at is for most people, for most applications, esp. in a pickup truck, there will be no improvement by swapping in a different carburetor. All things being equal it may well run worse, foul plugs, waste gas. Ask me how I know.
It is true that random heavily loved junkbox carburetors, parts swapped in from "whatever" into mixmaster specials can be nothing but trouble, but that one looks to be in real good shape, if it's the correct carburetor with the correct innards you couldn't pay me to swap it out with anything else. That might be the best carburetor ever designed, some say.
Lots of documentation online on the Autolite 2100, read the carburetion chapter in your Shop Manual and take the time to go through the carb over the winter. They are pretty simple but they have their quirks and "gotchas".
In the one pic of the side of the carb, can see the 1.14 embossed in the alloy. That means the venturi size is 1.14", the 2100 was supplied in a gazillion different configurations. 1.02", 1.08", 1.14", 1.23" etc.
They all pretty much look the same, but this is deceptive. Ford would have a specific venturi size, booster cluster (annular discharge nozzle assembly) jetting, and power valve # depending on whether it was installed in a car, or a truck, and the components would also differ on what type of transmission was installed, engine size, final gear ratio, etc. The shop manual lists this stuff.
What I'm getting at is for most people, for most applications, esp. in a pickup truck, there will be no improvement by swapping in a different carburetor. All things being equal it may well run worse, foul plugs, waste gas. Ask me how I know.
It is true that random heavily loved junkbox carburetors, parts swapped in from "whatever" into mixmaster specials can be nothing but trouble, but that one looks to be in real good shape, if it's the correct carburetor with the correct innards you couldn't pay me to swap it out with anything else. That might be the best carburetor ever designed, some say.
Lots of documentation online on the Autolite 2100, read the carburetion chapter in your Shop Manual and take the time to go through the carb over the winter. They are pretty simple but they have their quirks and "gotchas".
@Tedster9 thanks! @NumberDummy ...you seem to be the resident expert ... does that Venturi size look right to you for a truck with a 352?
By just about any CFM calculator, that carburetor is "too small", having a flow of around 300, but that's what Ford used. Depending on what your intended purpose for the truck is, it may just be about perfect. Like say for example, hauling stuff around in the bed now and then, cruising around to the DQ, reliable cold weather starts, good low end torque, camping and fishing, smooth idle, etc. Weird huh?
Thing to look out for is the wrong innards installed over the years. When carburetors are rebuilt on a commercial basis all the pieces go into a pile, and who knows what might get put back together. I'm just saying for most people, especially folks unfamiliar with carburetors to begin with, who probably don't want to make a career out of it, they are probably wasting money bolting on a new carburetor.
Take your time and clean it up,internally. Check that the correct size metering jets and power valve # are installed for your local altitude, make sure the fuel pump pressure and float height is in spec, make sure the choke is adjusted properly, adjust the idle mixture and idle RPM etc and you're golden. You won't need to touch it again for a long time.
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Carb Rebuild? Replace? Tag decode
