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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 03:37 PM
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carb rebuild kit

1984 F-150, 300-6 YFA carb. Wanted to get a rebuild kit but there are three listed. Which one to get, or they all the same?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 04:09 PM
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Most kits have all the parts for both styles of the one barrel carters, you'll just have extra parts in the kit. Do you still have the tag on your carb? They're about the first thing to not get put back on, but i'll have all the info on it.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 05:33 PM
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Well, IMHO, typically the carb rebuild "kits" are crap- either missing critical parts or the parts don't fit or are of poor quality. What I have done that has worked very well for me is to go to a carb rebuilding shop and ask them to put a "kit" together for me. The cost was around $50 but every part was there, fit correctly and worked!!!!

Just an FYI- Many forget to take fine sand paper, laying the carburetor block on it side on a very, very hard flat surface and gently sanding the surface.....if it’s not flat/square/smooth, it's likely slightly warped...and although it looks fine is will develop a fuel or vacume leak and won't function correctly.


 
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 07:41 PM
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I'm grumpy that mine doesn't come with a steel ball to reform the seat for the included ball. Now I have to figure out what size it is and try and find one.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2020 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mjollnir81
1984 F-150, 300-6 YFA carb. Wanted to get a rebuild kit but there are three listed. Which one to get, or they all the same?
Since you have a 1984 vehicle the kit that will most likely fit best is the one showing it fits the E4TE- carb.

Originally Posted by Kramercd
I'm grumpy that mine doesn't come with a steel ball to reform the seat for the included ball. Now I have to figure out what size it is and try and find one.
Most bicycle shops sell a wide variety of ball bearings in various sizes. Individually
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 07:26 AM
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Thanks, I'd figure the E4TE one was probably it. If the tag on the carburetor was on the top, I think it's long gone now.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by The Frenchtown Flyer
Most bicycle shops sell a wide variety of ball bearings in various sizes. Individually
If I ever dropped that box, I would quit on the spot. And think of the annual inventory!
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 12:45 PM
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Interesting on the bike shop idea, I'd have never thought of it. Wonder if we have any of those near here. Will dust off the old google and see what I can come up with.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cstephens
If I ever dropped that box, I would quit on the spot. And think of the annual inventory!
HarHarHar. Can you imagine trying to walk across that floor trying to get to your magnet???
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 02:36 PM
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I think all parents know the technique, same as for legos, shuffle your feet.

Also, since it's mostly on topic, and a will probably be a follow up question anyone. Could someone describe the process of setting the mix screw(s) back to the base setting, I think it's all the way in and one and a half turns back. But yeah, an entire walk through of setting the carb up and what needs to be done before and after? I'm pretty well there and I can't find where I read it before.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 04:18 PM
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Yup, 1.5 turns to start. Seat the needle gently so as not to damage the seat.

Re: ball bearing check valves. In the Carb Technicians Tool Kit Ford issued their engineers was a set of blunt punches of various diameters to be used for "staking" the check ball seats. The technique was to place the ball on the seat, put the punch against the ball and strike it gently to seat the ball perfectly on the seat.

On the other hand at a Holley Performance clinic the guy described whacking the vac secondary check ball seat with a Phillips head screwdriver to purposely make it leak so as to bring the secondaries in earlier on a WOT.
I prefer drilled bypass passages for this.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 05:22 PM
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Seems to me using the checkball for staking is OK, why is a second one needed?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 05:48 PM
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I'm either under the impression it's non-ferrous, or you don't want to deform it when you reform the seat. What I've got in my head anyway.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2020 | 06:13 PM
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Well that could be, I've only seen the steel checkballs though.
 
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