Hey guys, I am just starting to upgrade my 2003 7.3 F350. Truck has 130,000 miles on it. The trans has started slipping when towing my 10k trailer. I am on the list for a BTS trans and it will ship early next month. I had already upgraded to a mishimoto cooler and installed guages.

My goal is to get some more power for pulling over the mtn passes. I have but are not installed yet an S+B dry intake, 4" straight exhaust, and bellowed up pipes. Bellow is what I am getting ready to order from RiffRaff.

1. Downpipe T-Bolt clamp.
2. AIH delete plug.
3. Plenum reinforcing inserts.
4. CAC intercooler complete boot kit.
5. Intercooler T-bolt set.
6. O-ring Combo kit.
7. PHP Hydra tuner.
8. RiffRaff billet compressor wheel.
9. RiffRaff high flow outlet.
10. RiffRaff non EBPV pedestal and bolts.
11. Banks Big Head wastgate actuator.

Is there anything else I should add while going at it? Or anything on that list I should skip? I live in the PNW so winters are mild. Truck will be towing 10k trailer over passes.

 

Generally nice list of mods, but my first concern is the Mishimoto trans cooler. If the current trans has digested some friction material the cooler will essentially act as a filter and hold the material. And then poison the new trans. How does the trans fluid look? If it's red and clean I think you'll be OK.

 

So the backstory on that is I changed all the fluids in truck. I changed the trans filter and fluid and installed the mishimoto cooler. Then I towed for the first time my new to me toy hauler over the pass. The trans was slipping in 1st and 2nd gear. I made it back home. I pulled the trans pan and found no debris on the magnet or in the pan or filter and the fluid was still clean and smelled fine.

 

I like the TurboSmart unit better than Banks personally.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/turbo...uator-99-5-03/

 

I will read into that one. Thank you.

 

You're spending a bunch just to mod a stock turbo.....

 

Yeah, just a new wheel to remove surge. And the EBPV delete. I probably wont get the banks big head.

Still only $500 if I did all that. What does a new turbo setup cost? And then what other supporting mods for new turbo?

 

@Sous He can break out the costs between modding the stock turbo, going with a KC turbo and going to a T4. If you go T4 you aren't getting bellowed up pipes...that's part of the conversion.

 

I put in a Stage 2 KC300X drop in turbo for $1190. I had already done the bellowed up pipes when I modified the stock turbo. (MST) The MST was a big improvement over the stock configuration but NOWHERE NEAR the performance I’m getting out of the KC300X Stage 2...

https://kcturbos.com/products/kc7300...e-turbo-l99-03

 

I wasn't going to comment in this thread, but since I was summoned I will give my .02 worth... Keep in mind, pennies are not worth much though...

I started with a MST and was towing a 5th wheel cross country at 2800 - 3000 RPM, 30+ PSI of boost, 1200+ EGT's and still downshifting to 4th or 3rd (ZF6) at times in order to maintain speed. I decided I needed a better running truck and went to it. I saved my pennies for a long time and I have zero, none, zilch regrets about my choice. Now I tow at 2000 RPM, 20 - 22 PSI of boost and 900 - 1100 EGT's without downshifting out of 5th gear (ZF6) on the same exact terrain. The ONLY thing that changed was the T4 plumbing and Borg Warner 364.5 large turbine SXE turbo. Well, I also dropped 1023 and Gear Head tunes because they made my truck run like garbage after installing the new turbo. I went to PHP 65 HP tune on the Hydra and it is great.

I have two tunes programmed on my Hydra...
1. Forward (65 HP Performance)
2. High Idle (1100 RPM)

Don't take my word for it though, take a look at this thread...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...arts-list.html

 

Whats the current price for a BTS trans? I ordered one but builder has benn delayed multiple times and think of starting over with another builder (4r100)

 

MY suggestion..... if you are going to put a BTS in your truck ( I have one ) YOU make an appointment and Go to Brian's shop and be there while he takes your tranny out and overhauls it. If you have a camper, there is a campground a few miles from his shop. The experience is second to none to watch him work. Very very friendly as he shows you what he is doing to beef up your tranny. I did not even ask him to do this before hand, but he put on a 6.0 tranny cooler while I was there. Also, he has a several different 'shift plates' and when done you take it for a spin and any questions he will adjust it right then and there. I use a 'SuperChip' (I know, not a big fancy turner) and I took it for a spin and Brian and I talked about how it was running and shifting and I said I would 'kind of' like it to shift like this..... He said to pull it back into the shop and he dropped the pan... put in a different shift plate and in less that 7-8 minutes later out test driving again..... and don't forget to get the T-shirt

Also, your fuel bowl heater connection, you do not need it and if the element breaks, you are dead in the water and will not know why.

 

Not an option, live in Phoenix, looking for other cost effective option, if he is similar to JW, then too much for covid coach cushins

 

Thank you for your input and advice. A full turbo upgrade is not in the budget right now. I am mostly happy with the truck stock but would like just a little more power for now. I have read that the stock turbo will surge with added intake and tuner. That is my reasoning for adding an aftermarket billet wheel. And the EBPV delete for preventative while I'm in there.


$5000 with a 1 to 2 month wait is what I got.

I wish I could go directly to his shop but I live clear across the county. Thanks for the heads up on the element.

I am having the BTS trans shipped to me, then shipping mine as a core to him. Probably $500 shipped each way.

 

$2500 local rebuild in my trans with 50k serious towing miles (coast to coast 2x). It's not rocket science, just find a reputable builder.

I suggest the MST or T4. No in betweens. Had a 38r and it was worse than the MST low to mid range, has turbo surge and ended up puking oil out the exhaust. MST was missed, but the T4 is the best.