@Drtrash1 Give Jesse at Best Western Transmission here in Colorado Springs a call. They built mine, $3800, triple disc Torque Converter, Tugger HD shift kit and 3 year unlimited mileage warranty. They also do a Lifetime Warranty for extra $$$.

https://www.bestwesterntransmission.com/

 

You're taking the turbo out anyway if you want to delete the EBPV...do it right and throw a full 360* rebuild kit on it with a KC turbine and billet wheel. That way you'll know all the turbo parts are in good condition (or not) by taking it completely apart and there wont be any disappointments when it goes back in. #2 and 4 I don't see the point but the plenum inserts, plenum boots and t-bolt clamps are a good idea. The boost tube boots and t-clamps there is nothing wrong with IMO and not worth replacing. Replacing both of the V-band clamps isn't a bad idea (not too tight on those...that is metal on metal and there is no give or "squeeze" like the CAC boots. You can strip the threads on the T clamp if you over-do it. Light torque with a screw driver handle is all those need.)

The KC turbine and a billet wheel is a proven combo though.

 

The fuel bowl heater has a connection in the back of the fuel bowl, Just unplug it and never think or worry about it again

 

Is there only 1 connection on fuel bowl? Hate to unplug wrong one

 

I thought I had a better picture but if you look at the fuel bowl, you’ll see the plug being pointed at by the red arrow...

 

So the more I read and learn the more uncertain I am with what direction to go. I am now undecided on throwing money at modifying the stock turbo or upgrading to a different turbo.

I was offered a GTP38R that has R+R billet wheel, 100,000 miles on it for $900. Been reading hard on the GTP38R and it sounds good. But if I needed to replace the center section I'm in it for another $650.

I'm not sure a T4 setup is what I need either though. I dont want to go too far down the rabbit hole. I would like to keep stock injectors for as long as possible and just run a tune for little more power when towing. Will a T4 setup run on stock Injectors?

After you guys install a billet wheel on the stock journal bearing turbo do you have it balanced by a shop? Also looking at the drop in ready balanced KC turbine/compressor setup for the stock turbo but it's $450 or so.

 

If you already have bellowed pipes ready to go in, and plan to stay with stock or stage 1-1.5 injectors I would honestly lean towards a new kc300x stage 1 63/68 .84 It will spool fast and move all the air you need, at a much lower cost then t4, and barely any more then that 38r(I sold a 38r with RR billet wheel with 25,000 miles on it, and was happy to see it go far away for $675 last winter)

 

I wouldn’t buy a used turbo for $900 0r $700 for that matter when I can buy brand new technology aka a new turbo for $1050. As Eswift stated, the KC300X will do everything you need it to do with stock sticks. I’m very happy with how mine performs especially at this elevation.

 

Thanks guys, I will read into the KC300X.

 

So, some very interesting reading here...I am at about the same place with my pickup. I have been looking at upgrades for the stock turbo, and have been coming to the conclusion given here that it may be better to just keep the stock turbo alone, save the coin and just upgrade the turbo.

 

I was in the same boat, wanted to keep my stock injectors as long as I could but be ready for the next size when the day comes. I was going to rebuild my stock turbo but with doing it “right” it was going to cost me a bit more than half the cost of a KC300X stage 1. So I went with the KC and very glad I did! Performance is excellent! And it sounds great, if you’re into that!

 

I have been reading into the KC300X. Not a ton of reviews but what I have read sounds good. Why go with the .86 and not the 1.0 housing?

 

I believe the.84 spools faster. I’ve been running the KC300X 63/73 .84 for over a year. I spoke with Charlie and James multiple times regarding which turbo (63/68 or 63/73 w/ .84). they both told me the stage one, 63/68 with spool up faster at lower RPMs whereas the stage 2 63/73 would provide more top end performance.

I live at 6300’ elevation and tow up 10,000’… with the thinner air at this elevation I wanted to make sure I made the right decision the first time. I went with the stage 2 and it has been outstanding... if I can keep my RPMs up. in hindsight I think the stage one probably would’ve been an overall better choice simply because of the improved low end performance . However, I have no complaints the way the truck is running or the turbo is performing at this elevation right now. Give KC a call and discuss your truck, what you’re looking to do with it, what do you want to be able to do five years from now. They will give you solid advice.

I bought this trailer and loader last weekend, the weight ticket came in at 24,640#, the truck scales at 8200# so the trailer came in at 16,440#. I had to take a 2 lane state highway that consisted of long mountain climbs and descents. I kept the OD off, the RPM’s up and during the steepest climbs my EGTS were in the mid 1070* to 1180*. I would have NEVER done that with the stock turbo in any configuration.

 

Thanks. I will call them monday.

 

I have found the 1.0 to be useless in performance gain, unless you run larger nozzles and like to drive over 2,900 rpm a lot.
The .84 spools way better down low and moves plenty of air through the rpm range that most trucks are actually used.
I do not believe I would ever enjoy towing with a 1.0