Hello!

The other night my 2016 F350 Gas needed a jump to get it going. Oddly enough, it started fine in the morning going to work. Anyway, I checked the battery and it had 10.5 Volts. So I jumped the truck. Drove home. Next morning (yesterday) stone dead in the driveway. (10.2 volts) So my boss swung by and picked me up for an emergency call out. So I am figuring the Original battery gave up the ghost. Now here is my dilemma. What to get for a battery. I was kind of taken back how freaking expensive batteries got. So if I am going to spend the money, I want to make sure it is going to be right. Currently stock 650 Amp battery. I usually replace a battery with equal if not better (usually around 750-900 CCA rating) In the past I had good luck with a chain store batteries in the same class. However, I noticed they sell 3 year batteries for super high prices. I think in the past the last 2 batteries were 5 year rated and lasted a long time like 8 or 9 years each in different vehicles.

So is it worth going AGM in a super duty or stick with FLA just higher CCA? What does FTE think.

 

I just go to Walmart and get the right size battery with the least warranty and they last just as long as the long warranty ones because they are the same battery.

Denny

 

JMO: Replace it with whatever Group 65 battery at the price point you're comfortable with. You're right however, batteries have gotten stupid expensive.

Batteries last 3 years in the FL heat here so I don't bother with anything exciting. I think I have a Group 65 650CCA O'Reilly's AGM battery now that's a couple of years old. Side note, my 13 has drained a good battery a couple of times now and I've found it to be the APIM. Both times it did this, the radio froze and stopped working while I was driving... it appears to have stayed alive after turning the key off which kills the battery overnight.

 

10.5 volts open circuit is kind of a tell or diagnostic on what happened there. Shorted cell. Take the total series voltage of 6 cells and take one away .. And you get 10.5 or near enough.

I always tell people the best battery you can buy will still die prematurely if it is neglected. It would be wise to check the charging system out whenever replacing a battery, and the reverse is true too.

Spend the same money you might on the "best" battery, but instead, buy a "really pretty good" battery and buy a good battery charger.

Instead of something like 5 years I get 10 years or more of good service out of them by keeping them plussed up. The charging system can't really do this, especially these days with all the bells and whistles and the computer uploading your shopping habits while you're sleeping. Modern cars and trucks have a pretty hefty load on that same 12 volt batt at times, this tends to kill batteries, along with high underhood temps. A battery charger will easily pay for itself many times over. Even a $5 yard sale charger is just fine. Keep them charged up and their service life will be extended, plus they will provide all of the CCAs you paid extra for, with reliable starting in extreme cold.

 

Do you charge to a specific voltage ?

 

Thanks for the responses so far. I couldn't get into the finer details as I had to get going to work. I suspected the battery had shorted out by my voltage readings as @Tedster9 pointed out. The charging system looks OK. The alternator seems to be putting out the correct voltage and charges the battery any other day. However I know I have another problem. I have a COP arcing throwing a P06B6 DTC. I heard it the other night while jumping the truck once running. I thought I heard it early on a few weeks ago, but I didn't. That's another issue I need to handle which I didn't have time and weather for. Working tons of hours and late every night. I figured this weekend is going to be nice but cold. Perfect time to pull and check the COPs for issues and see if I can get replacements.

As @rvpuller aka Denny mentioned just grabbing a Walmart battery. I was thinking this in the beginning after I saw the pricing for the same battery at the chain stores. I will be dealing with this tomorrow I guess...

 

Yes. The cool thing about batteries is they are a mature technology, they hashed all this stuff out a long, long time ago. There are charge tables that list what a specific battery type will measure when fully charged, and also important, what the charging voltage needs to be to compensate based on ambient temperature. Electrolyte specific gravity is maybe better, but most batteries are sealed these days.

The important thing is just keep them charged up, they will lose voltage even sitting on a shelf. And in hot weather, and especially in modern cars and trucks with a boatload of accessories and add ons, security systems and the rest of it. "Batteries die in July, they just don't fall over till November." Discharged automotive start batteries don't really recover, they don't "like" it. Ford in their early owner's manual described a weak battery as a bit like driving around on underinflated tires.

Dead or deeply discharged batteries will also freeze, which is dangerous if charging (or jump starting) is attempted, and it is scrap when thawed anyway. It is the heart of the truck electrical system, it pays to show it at least a little love now and then.

 

Here is a better than average battery with a five year full replacement warrantee. https://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...sel/sli65agmdp If you look they commonly have 20% off coupons were you buy it online and pick up at a local store. Good Luck, Russ

 

The above X2 Battery is highly recommended. Made by EnerSys just like Odyssey. Great batteries and they have been talked about in depth. I still have a pair that has been through multiple trucks and they test above 80% after 300k.

 

We had a Batteries Plus up until early last year I think. I went there a few times for work. However it closed down. The closest one is like an hour away now. So that's a no go. I looked around. Walmart batteries the price looks good at the price point and in some on line reviews but also they seem to fail after 2 years. However Project Farm's review basically said it was a good price for a descent battery but that was brand new. Give it a few years in a truck and get back to me So I went to the file in which I knew I had a "recent" battery purchase. It was from 2012 in the no longer owned Ford Explorer! Sure enough, it was 5 year battery. Rated at 850. Paid $130 for it after 20% off and core charges and tax. It worked without a problem right until I junked the vehicle in November 2019. So that was 7 and half years of service. I only went with it because my wife's former car had the same battery and that battery was going strong for 8 years. I kicked myself for swapping that battery as I thought she had an electrical issue with the battery which turned out to be a PCM which was known to have problems. Got to love Pontiac for that one.

Local Ford dealer is about $140 plus tax and core for an 850. Auto zone and advance is $170. Probably grab a core i have on the side of the house and call it a day any one place.

 

Home Depot in my area (Ohio) has the best battery prices, followed by Menard's with WalMart coming in third.

-- Dave

 

I wound up dropping off to the selling dealer. $189.95 for an 850 CCA battery ($145.00) installed with a vehicle check and car wash when I called them this morning. They said it should be done in a couple of hours as I was a walk in not an appointment. I would have normally just bought another battery and install it but I worked my tail off this week and I don't really feel like handling a 50 pound battery over the fender on the truck while trying to get other stuff done around the house. The extra few bucks is worth the extra time I would need for my stuff to do. The other interesting thing the service advisor said the battery has extended warranty since I purchased it through the dealer with install. He would go over the details when pick up the truck since he was trying to process a few tickets at the same time. I said just let me know about it when I come back.

 

Sometimes our checkbook is the best tool to use, no doubt about it. Defective batteries happen now and then, unlikely at a dealer maybe but then hey should have fresh stock. Heck they might even charge it up before install. If there is a problem down the road there isn't any question who needs to perform. New batteries take a few dozen starts before they will accept a complete charge and reach full capacity, btw.

 

Good tip on the extended through the dealer install. I used to get them from Walmart but the price and hassle at customer service, I'm getting up there and that was a hour and a half of my life I'll never get back. Next one came from Advance Auto, I was in and out under 10 minutes.

 

Picked the truck up around 3 PM. New battery in and you can hear the difference in the start up. The old battery was tested and produced 150CA. They said they needed a jump pack after sitting for 2 hours. New Ford Tough Max 850 installed and tested. They performed an electrical systems check as well after the battery was in. Total was just over $200 with tax. The gentleman I was speaking with was not a service advisor but the manager. When I picked up the truck, I went over the ticket with him. He said the battery is free replacement up to 36 months. After 36 months, it is an additional 60 month pro rated model. We will see in 3 years LoL. Anyway, back on the road. The truck will need some TLC. I should get a set of front brake pads on order for the truck. Also want to take care of the coil pack issue on the truck. Of course tonight I cannot see which one is arcing the but hey tomorrow is another night. LoL