When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First and foremost, get the Ford spec.
Second, it's best to pick a brand and stick with it...don't switch from brand to brand. Two different brands can meet the same spec but have chemistries that don't mix well.
First and foremost, get the Ford spec.
Second, it's best to pick a brand and stick with it...don't switch from brand to brand. Two different brands can meet the same spec but have chemistries that don't mix well.
My advice comes from chemists who developed motor oils for their entire career. You may never see a problem. Is there a good reason to take a risk other than to save a few bucks buying what ever is on sale?
Some discussions I've read state Motorcraft filter only. If I remember right it's the internal drain back valve they have. I can not remember if my filter is upside down or not, and if it is, it would be full of oil. So maybe with that orientation it's a moot point. I was always taught to fill an oil filter up before putting it on. You can't do that with some mounts.
I swear my "08" 5.4 clattered after the first oil change momentarily then on cold (winter) start up very briefly every time after that. It had never done it before the first oil change. I didn't use Motorcraft at that time.
"15" 6.2 exact same thing. This "20" 7.3 gets Motorcraft, whether I'm delusional or not "they" recommend this filter maybe to sell and make money, maybe they feel it's engineering will work well. If you look at ripped apart filter comparisons the media isn't the best or worst. It appears well made. I don't think a smaller micron rating is better as it might starve the engine or at least lower volume under some conditions.
I use Castrol full synthetic 5-30 the weight that "they" want. From my experience (limited) I know it's over kill but it makes me feel better to use what I feel is a top quality oil.
Caterpillar recommended 30w for years, B&S and others too. I will say this, I used to use Wolfs Head straight weight changing weight with seasons and every 3K dumping. I believe at least once because of straight weight and cold temps I got rod wrap in a motor, a few other times it could have been due to abuse solely or with some contributing factor due to straight weight.
I didn't think oil could be 5w and 30w. I know it isn't, viscosity index improvers allow heat not to thin beyond it's first number. I also never believed in car wash products that have wax. I mean how can you do that, the wax won't allow the wash to be as effective and vice versa. So I found out Mequires Ultimate, that yellow stuff is better than sliced bread.
My advice comes from chemists who developed motor oils for their entire career. You may never see a problem. Is there a good reason to take a risk other than to save a few bucks buying what ever is on sale?
Valvoline goes out of their way to call it a "myth".
For years in a 07 F150 5.4 Triton I used Motorcraft semi-synthetic 5W20. You can get it really cheap at Walmart.
Then went to Mobil One Full Synthetic for high mileage engines. Also cheaper at Walmart that anywhere else. Truck has some oil leaks and they seem to have slowed using this. (205K miles)
I have been known to top off with Pennzoil or Castrol semi-synthetics.
Always use Motorcraft filters because that's what came on it and they're cheaper than some of the others.
I no longer change my own oil. In my old age I get vertigo crawling under things on my back. Then there is the problem of disposal. I have a young man at a local shop, if I bring my own oil and filter he charges $10 and the owner lets him put it in his pocket.
I once had to rebuild a Chevy Camaro engine because i ran nothing but Quaker State in it. Don't do that.
As others mention, make sure it meets the Ford spec (WSS-M2C946-B1). I was using Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5w30 but recently switch to Rotella’s Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5w30. Cheap at Wally World
Since I’ve had my 2016 6.2 I’ve used the Motorcraft 5-30 and Filter from Walmart. This was a win-win for me as I used the Ford Spec oil and filter AND it cost under $32 per change. However, I see our Walmart’s here in the SE are for some reason discontinuing carry the Motorcraft oil. I did manage to score enough for about one year of changes on sale and drop my per oil change cost to under $30. When that runs out I’m strongly considering the Rotella gas truck oil as it is spec and price point is good too.
I tend to stick with Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum/Ultimate that meets specs. My filters are normally Mobil 1 or Wix. I’ve read and heard good things about that Amazon Basics oil, but haven’t tried it yet.
The question about if they prefix the new filter or not is enough for me to do my own oil changes.
also, these folks jump around vehicles when they do oil changes..while one is draining..there adding oil to another....changing the filter on yet another..etc,
there have been mysterious cases of 6.7s coming in for an oil change.....and suddenly needing a new engine due to spun bearings.
It's made by Warren, same company that blends Supertech, and Amazon basic oil.
Indeed, it is. Blended by Warren Distribution, not to be confused with Warren Oil, which is the house brand. They have come a long way from the “corner store oil” they used to be known for. They used to say that NAPA was made by Valvoline, but it could be different now. I’d be tempted to use Amazon oil at some point once warranty is out. Even the fact of doing your own changes is risky to some regarding warranty claims. I’ll take my chances on that one. Every maintenance item is documented on my vehicles, whether they have warranty or not.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.