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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 10:49 AM
  #1  
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Truck fluids

Quick and easy question what are all the fluids I need for my 1977 Ford F-250
oil
diff
power steering
coolant but I think coolant is coolant correct me if I’m wrong
brake fluid

thank you
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 11:07 AM
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Transmission? Manual or AT? Different fluids.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 11:19 AM
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Sorry I forgot about that 🤦🏻‍♂️ It’s a 1977 Ford F-250 custom with a 351M C6 trans with 3.31 gears automatic transmission
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 03:54 PM
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If it is a 77 C6 it will run Dex, not type F as you might think. TONS of posts arguing that, but Ford engineers changed the spec in I believe '76.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2020 | 04:01 PM
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Do you know about the other fluids like
oil
diff
power steering
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 09:04 AM
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Engine oil, use a high zinc 10-30 or 10-40 to protect your flat tappets. Valvoline VR-1 is the easiest to find.

For the transmission my tranny guru with decades of experience says use type F . dex/merc will work but you will get more slippage .

Power steering , any ATF will work but most say DEXIII is best.

For the axles any good 80-90 is fine but if you have posi add a friction modifier.

Brake fluid, DOT 3 is what it takes if you're just adding to it. I convert everything to DOT 5 for several reasons. DOT 5 is silicone based, not only is it harmless to your paint job but it repels moisture where DOT 3 absorbs it.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 11:52 AM
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Trans fluid spec is on the dipstick. M2C138CJ=DEX/MERC M2C33F=TYPE F
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 04:39 PM
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Re engine oil - do a search on the 73-79 forums for "ZDDP" and you will get a coupla thousand posts to read through about using sufficient zinc in flat-tapper engines. I'd also suggest Rotella dieel oil, lots of zinc, high detergent. and not too pricey at WalMart.

Transmission fluid - as DB429SCJ said, read your dipstick. Normally post-76 is Dexron, but you could have a holdover. (And not to pick a fight, I would give more weight to what the engineers who designed the transmissions say. YMMV)

Re the brake fluid, there are pluses and minuses to DOT 3 and DOT 5- research would allow you to make a sound judgement.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 05:42 PM
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I've been using DOT 5 for 15 years. tell me what a minus is .
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 09:07 PM
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Have been told any spillage or splashed drops can affect paint application if you are painting. That and you have to do a thorough alcohol flush prior to use, and can never use DOT 3/4 ( like you can between 3 and 4). Not major, but someone switching probably would want to know. Is all that accurate?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 10:41 PM
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Any silicone is a bad idea on paint, and it very well could cause fish eye in a repaint if it's not properly stripped. that said, I'll take my chances with fish eye on the next paint job if it doesn't eat my new paint job up today.

The flush and hose change out thing is true, but it's also a joke. I took a bottle and put both DOT 3 and DOT 5 in it and set it on my shelf for 10 years. they're like oil and water they will not mix and in fact they separate instantly. big deal, so the tiny amount of DOT 3 left in the system goes to it's own corner . but it still does it's job.

I live in the high desert so the paint thing is why I use DOT 5. but if I lived ( and drove ) my classics in a wet environment I'd use DOT 5 for that reason alone. just a suggestion, DOT 3 was what they came with and it certainly will do the job.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 12:25 PM
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440 - like I said, minor - but if he is contemplating paint that could be important to him. I have never gotten to the point where switching out became important... I flush my fluid periodically and don't push the limits if I can help it, so
the factory braking system has served me well on every car I have owned.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 12:45 PM
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No argument from me, the factory brakes are more than adequate and DOT 3 works fine. it's just DOT 5 has some things going for it.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
DOT 5 is silicone based, not only is it harmless to your paint job but it repels moisture where DOT 3 absorbs it.
Conventional brake fluid was designed and selected to absorb moisture buildup because if it didn't the brake lines would freeze up solid in areas where inevitable moisture buildup pools. That would mean "no brakes", widely considered unpleasant! It also means the brake fluid would otherwise boil at high temperature, same thing. No brakes. There is a method to the madness.

That does mean the brake system requires flushing eventually, but almost nobody ever does this. DOT 5 has some things going for it, it's expensive, and is well known to be a royal pain in the *** to bleed, and tends to foam. Most of us out here in the cheap seats get by with DOT 3 just fine. Prestone DOT 3 meets or exceeds the minimum federal standards for a DOT 4 rating, it's really easy for us to slip over the line into silliness on this stuff.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2020 | 03:13 PM
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It's better to keep the moisture out of the system by repelling it than to absorb it. DOT 5 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3. DOT 5 is a liquid, it bleeds the same as any liquid it's not a mystery substance it's silicone. I have used DOT 5 for 15 years with perfect results no problems whatsoever . it is not recommended for antilock brakes but that's a non issue for this discussion. DOT 5 is a military spec fluid designed to repel water from braking systems and it worked.

If an extra $9 dollars to eliminate the possibility of paint damage and rusted or seized brake components breaks the budget maybe a scooter is a better project. but as I said DOT 3 is fine DOT 5 is an upgrade option.
 
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