O.K. who was the "genius" that decided where the oil pan plug would go in my 1966 352 motor???? Mechanic say to drain motor oil after he installed new cam and before startup so cam "breaks-in" o.k. What a mess!!!! I had oil running everywhere but in the pan. Garage floor is a mess and I need to get some oil dry now.

It was in a hard place to get to and the oil splashed over the crossmember and then down both sides. Did prior owner install wrong pan or am I missing some kinda tube hickie????

Let me kNOW!!!

 

No, you are not missing a tube and the pan is the right one. Unfortunately!! However there are several drain shutoffs on the market that allow you to hook up a hose for oil drains. Check at Summit for both a Fumoto? or a Fram drain valve. I always hated that dumb drain location also, so when I built my pan I put the drain where it doesn't hit anything!!

 

Ahhh yes, the 352 drain plug. Shoulda warned you.
Nothing a scrap piece of cardboard can't help. I just make a chute for it into the drain pan. It's an acquired talent. Better keep extra oil dry on hand just in case.

 

Ive seen some aftermarket rear sump oil pans for sale in Jegs and Summit. Will these fit and not affect the suspension or is it better to work with the current setup.

 

I hear ya, I just recently aquired a 66 F-250 with a 352 and had the same problem. Fortunate for me, I was in a gravel parking space and a gallon of Simple Green when I changed the oil. I like the Cardboard chute idea DDavidV, I'll use that next time.

Jim

One problem down, few to go

 

First off, If your mechanic told you to run the fresh cam with the pan empty, fire him!
If he installed the cam, you should change the oil first, run the engine about 1300-1500 rpm for 15 minutes. You can drive it for a couple of hundred miles (take it easy and the engine will break in right) and then change the oil and filter. The cam must be lubricated during break in or you will tear up the cam lobes as well as the lifter bottoms.

 

You would need to take some measurements to see if they clear. Most rear sump pans are deeper than the front sump and could interfere with the steering linkage. If the pan depth is more than about 7 inches, it will be too close to the linkage. I found that most FE pans are sold as fitting any front sump app., but are too deep to clear the crossmember in the 2WD trucks. I checked with several man. and got a price of $600-700 for a pan to fit my application. So I built my own!!

 

FRAM Makes a quick disconnect kit that you install into the oil pan and when you are ready to change the oil you screw on the hose that came with the kit and it drains away from the cross member into your oil drain pan,

 

240 and 300 have same problems, FYI.

I am always a little skeptical of these drain "quick disconnect" kits and valves and whatnot. Takes only one softball sized rock, thrown up just right, and the thing breaks off.

And then your oil drains out and you shell your engine. Personally, I find the cardboard idea a good one.

Or you can do like my old man -- when I got the pickup, I swear, there was 25 years of congealed oil/dirt under the pan and accross the crossmember!! He has long arms -- was able to reach the drain plug behind the 240 from above, as well as the filter. He used to just reach over the fender, unscrew the plug and let the oil go where she wanted (keeps the dust down out here), while it was draining spin on a new filter, put the plug back in afterwards and 5 quarts. 3 minute oil change!

 

I,m sorry I should have specified the the adapter is no bigger than the drain plug , and has a metal cap that covers up the quick disconect for the hose that attaches whe you drain you oil, but it's just an Idea, what ever work for you the best is all that matters

 

i dont see what the big deal is if you have a 5 dollar plastic oil pan from wolly world then it caches all the oil even on the 352 engine.

 

Just get a fluid evacuator. It comes with a small diameter long plastic tube that you put inside the dipstick tube and drain it that way.

You could also drain your transmission fluid, differential gear fluid, etc., without getting a mess.

 

i dont know about you guys but my 66 352 drain plug is in the rear. my father inlaw is orginal owner. always been rear sump as far as i know

 

Just install a new bung. Put it where you like. Just drain the oil drill the hole wait for it to drip clean then clean the area and weld on a new bung.

44

 

O.k. Thats what I was thinking but where is the lowest spot that doesnt have interference either inside or outside?