Hi, all.
I'm kinda new to Fords.
I need to replace my motor mounts & pull the oil pan to replace the rear main seal.
The truck is an 87 F 250 2wd w/ a C6 trans.

My crappy Chiltons book says I can raise the block to perform these operations by putting a floor jack under the crank dampener w/ a piece of wood between dampener & jack, & jacking it up a few inches and put some wood blocks between the motor mounts & frame mount pillars (or is it motor mounts & block?) to get clearance between the pan & crossmembers to pull the oil pan; of course after disconnecting the exhaust, unbolting the motor mounts & loosing the AT trans mount....

This is a big heavy motor...Is this O.K. to do this w/ a 460 (w/out damaging the crank or bearings); or could they be referring to smaller engines in this description????

Common sense tells me to remove the hood & use an engine crane....

Another question: Do I need to pull the oil pan to remove the timing cover on a 460? I have heard two different stories on this; anyone know?

Just curious, info. can be helpful on deciding how I want to proceed w/ this stuff; as I also want to swap a new cam & unretarded timing set, manifold, etc. into this motor...

thanks in advance, J.D.

 

On the Windsor motors, the rear main seal comes out the back, you have to remove the trans, but not the pan. I am not sure what style the 460 has, I should since I own one, but I just don't remember from when I put the motor in.

 

If it's the original '87 truck 460 it should be a 2 piece seal... Pan off, rear main dropped to access seal...

 

Correct.

As for supporting the engine by the harmonic balancer, YES it can be done. Just put the block of wood as close to the block as possible and still allow you to get the pan out. then support the weight of the block by putting 2x4s between the engine mounts and the perches

For the timing cover. No need to pull the pan, you can get it out. Putting it back in is a bitof a challenge but if you cut the front of the pan gasket off(the part that follows the front main), you can reinstall it with RTV at the cuts and it reaseals fine

 

Ah, cool!
Same trick done w/ small block Chevy for front cover removal w/ out pulling oil pan on 2wd chevy/ GMC truck... The 460 has AIR, the holley EPA carb, retarded timing set & a lot of other crap on it to meet emission standards which are NEVER checked here in MT.

So many vacuum lines I am losing manifold vacuum; 68,000 original on this baby (was a trailer tow rig for some REAL OLD folk's; one of the reasons the original miles are so low).

Great compression; bottom end should be good for my mods which I figure I can wease another 100 HP out of pretty easily...I mean, C'mon...240 HP out of a stock 87 460??? Christ, even the Buick Wildcat 430 gave us (bone stock) 340 HP!

I chose this Ford however for a number of reasons; the major one being the low miles & after I'm done I'll be able to tow (almost) anything I need to....Plus its got a real nice custom white pearl w/ clear lacquer overcoat paint job w/ blue pin striping (the old man said he did it because his wife was bitching about the fading two-tone blue factory job.)

Some people tell me they think I paid too much for the rig ($4500); I think I did O.K. & that they're stone cold crazy considering what the dollar will buy nowadays-

J.D.

 

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