Hello, I am about to commence a repair of a leak coming from the the upper oil pan on a 2013 F-550 6.7 with 125,000 miles on it. I want to make sure I am fully setup beforehand. I have read some threads stating that it is best to replace the whole pan as it can be warped over time. If so, is that still able to be done in-vehicle or would the engine mount need to come off? Also, is there a way to measure this? I don't see any specifications in the shop manual. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.

 

I have not seen any mention of 6.7 upper oil pan warping, only leaks. Here is the procedure for the 2014 6.7 upper oil pan replacement/re-seal.

Also, check the 6.7 forum, there are a few threads about the upper oil pan.

6.7L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Hi Larry,

Thank you very much for the info and the excerpted manual. I'll carry on!

Best, Nick

 

Upper pan or lower pan??

If it's the upper pan check your vacum pump first before dropping the pan. I had a leak at the front of the engine and found it was the vacum pump was loose and needed a new gasket. To do the pan you gotta pull the trans. Vacum pump is easier and cheaper.

 

Thank you very much for the info. I did a dye test already and it is pretty evident that it is the upper pan.

 

I assume you have a lift? Transmission has to come out. Make sure you get the gaskets for the pan (3), the oil cooler gaskets (3), and the oil filter adaptor gasket. Pan is siliconed on. Removing the 4 studs that are bolted to the pan that hold the battery cable loom and the trans cooler lines makes it much easier going back in. When you go back in with the pan use a helper. One person in back will slide the pan in place across the crossmember from the rear. One person in front makes sure the pan doesn’t contact anything that would wipe the new silicone off. Then both of you will lift the pan strait up and start bolts front and rear to snug it up to the block. From there install the remaining bolts.

 

Yes, got the transmission out. Thanks for the advice and I'll roll forward wit this.

 

Mission accomplished. My advice to anyone else doing this repair is to really make sure that the sealing surface of the block is totally clean, which is difficult as there is oil constantly falling from the crankcase. Thus you can't spray brake/parts cleaner without more oil constantly dripping down. Wipe the inside edges of the crankcase with blue shop towels (so as to avoid any oil dripping down prior to resealing), then give the sealing surface a good wipe just before putting the upper pan back in.