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I have a 1966 F250. i have new wiring everywhere (frame off restoration) and new wiper switch. Wiper switch is 7 prong and 2 speeds. the wipers work perfectly. i have a new washer pump that has 1 wire terminal that must connect to the wiper switch. if you push the wiper **** in, this activates the washer pump. pump is working great when i bring a jumper wire over from the battery. i cannot get the push button on the switch to activate the motor. I found this attached switch diagram online. it shows 2 posts for the washer pump (941 and 950). with only 1 wire coming off the pump and my switch not activating the pump, am i supposed to add power to the other switch terminal to get this circuit to work? this seems wrong to me since the wiper switch already has power because the wiper motor runs through all 2 speeds just fine. when i connect my single wiper pump wire to any one of the remaining open terminals on this switch, nothing happens at the pump. i cannot find a washer pump wiring diagram anywhere online. anyone know what i am doing wrong??
To test the switch - out of circuit - for continuity between those 2 posts 941 and 950 set your meter to continuity test and place the probes one each on those two posts and activate the washer (pushing in it sounds like in your case) and the meter should let out an audible. If you set a meter to ohms you should see it drop from infinite ohms to near zero ohms when activated. I did this test both ways (ohms and continuity) with one of the factory original switches (pulling out on the shaft in my case) and can confirm the results.
The pump itself gets it's ground from one of the 3 screws that holds it to the fender - the one with the small brass strap. I suspect your ground is good since the pump runs when you jumper it.
Test the switch and see what results you get with just it and no wiring.
Then you can also connect the wiring and connect the battery and test for voltage on the end of the wire running to the pump - between there and ground - push the button and make sure you have a nominal 12V there.
TA - thanks for that input. i don't need to test for continuity across the switch. its a brand new switch. i need to know if the washer pump circuit only ties into the wiper switch with one wire or if i have to bring another power wire into the wiper switch. why would this diagram show 2 prongs on the back side of the switch associated with the washer pump?
your 2nd reply is actually the problem. i cannot get the wiper switch to activate the pump. i had a test light on each of the 3 open terminals and there was no juice when i pushed the **** in on the switch.
i am thinking i need to run a 2nd power wire to one of the 2 washer terminals identified on that diagram in my first post. that seems wrong to me since i know the switch already has power to the other terminals since my wipers fire up each time i turn the switch for that motion.
does anybody out there have a wiring diagram for a 7 terminal wiper switch? that would solve this mystery. even the main Ford wiring diagram for the entire truck does not show the wiper switch in any way.
that wiring diagram is helpful in some ways. it shows that the washer pump only uses 1 wire on the switch to send power. you have 2 wiper motors it looks like so the switch is not exactly the same. if i use this information, that makes my situation harder to understand since i have been connecting my washer pump to the wiper switch using only 1 wire. i can't get it to work that way.
Yes, power comes in on one of the connectors and goes out the other. You can choose which one you hook to power and which goes to the pump. It's just an internal switch between those two connectors and doesn't have any internal attachment to any other pins.
thanks TA. that is what i thought. if i bring power in, its not tied to my fuses unless i splice a wire into the power coming off the fuse panel that currently powers my wiper switch. should i do something like that do you think?
For the power wire they used a piece about 12" long that loops back to the center post of the ignition switch using a round connector on that end so it would have ultimately gotten power through the fuse panel I believe.
A lot of wiper circuits switch the ground for purposes that make it easier to "Park" the wiper blades.
Hence the two washer terminals of your switch: 941 and 950. These two connect when you press the switch for "washer". There appear to be no other connections.
So, you need to provide power to 941, and 950 should go to the power side of the washer pump.
It may make it easier to understand by thinking of the systems as two separate systems, the switch serving dual duty, instead of having two switches.
Just wanna throw out a thank you for the info in this thread. Helped me diag a bad wiper switch. Now I gotta find another C6TB-17A553-B which might be impossible.
The C6TB is the engineering ID number on that part. Might find one using that number but might be better to use the part number instead, which in this case is very similar with the first B in the prefix changed to a Z
C6TZ-17A553-B
Couple of them on eBay right now with the less expensive of the two being $150. Fairly common price for them.
There is also a C7TZ-17A553-A which is the exact same switch functionally just a superseded number since they needed to make a whole lot more of them for 1967 and beyond. But it is 100% compatible with the 7-terminal switch for 1966. Ones on eBay as low as $40 plus shipping.
From the January 1980 OSI (Obsolete, Supersede, Interchange) catalog. RB stands for Replaced By.
For anyone curious NR means Not Replaced and MW means Mix With.
The C6TB is the engineering ID number on that part. Might find one using that number but might be better to use the part number instead, which in this case is very similar with the first B in the prefix changed to a Z
C6TZ-17A553-B
Couple of them on eBay right now with the less expensive of the two being $150. Fairly common price for them.
There is also a C7TZ-17A553-A which is the exact same switch functionally just a superseded number since they needed to make a whole lot more of them for 1967 and beyond. But it is 100% compatible with the 7-terminal switch for 1966. Ones on eBay as low as $40 plus shipping.
From the January 1980 OSI (Obsolete, Supersede, Interchange) catalog. RB stands for Replaced By.
For anyone curious NR means Not Replaced and MW means Mix With.
Thanks for the info, I saw a few C7TZ-17A553-A on eBay a whole lot cheaper as you said and the plug looked the same so I wondered about functionality. I'll take a chance on one of those.
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